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^o /, zro (^i-u^)
HARVARD COLLEGE LIBRARY
FROM THE FUND OF
CHARLES MINOT
GLASS OP i8a8
/
I
THS
HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES
or THi rAEiau or
TOTTENHAM,
IN THK
COUNTY OF MIDDLESEX
BY WILLIAM ROBINSON, LL.D.. F.S.A
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
SECOND CDITIOK.
f<
PRODBSSE QUAM CONSPICI." Hon:
^ LONDON:
NICHOLLS AND SON, PARLIAMENT STREET; W. PICKERING, CHANCERY LANE ; W. B. HUNNINGS, AND G. COVENTRY, TOTTENHAM.
1840.
6'
n
C\
nv
-7
PRINTED BT O. COVBNTRY, I/OWER TOTTENHAM.
TO
SIR WILLIAM CURTIS, BART.,
LORD OF THE MANORS
or
TOTTENHAM,
AMD
TO THE REST OF HIS FELLOW PARISHIONERS,
THE FOLLOWING HISTORY,
!•,
WITH THE GREATEST EESPECT, IKtCElBED,
BT
THEIR OBEDIENT SERVANT,
INTRODUCTION.
Although every topographical history b necessarily an object of cu- riosity and concern to those immediately connected with it, yet there are certain circnmstances attending the parish of Tottenham, which not only inYest it with a yery peculiar interest in the eyes of its own in- habitants, but also recommend it to general attention. Its most ancient records place it in the tenure of kings and princes, and we dlBCOver it passing through a succession of fiumUes of the most elevated rank and consequence. At the time of the Norman conquest, it was assigned by the conqueror to Countess Judith, his niece. It subsequently came into the hands of the Kings of Scotland, who erected a castle upon it, and made it their own residence ; it afterwards devolved successively to several distinguished noblemen, in whose families it continued till a very recent period. From the high station and great wealth of the different possessors of this parish, it might reasonably be presumed that it must have enjoyed many local distinctions. These have now become deservedly the object of antiquarian research ; and though some of them have almost totaUy disappeared under the ravages of time and the no less destructive hand of modem taste, yet sufficient vestiges may still be traced of the ancient magnificence of Tottenham to gratify with no ordinary portion of delight the mind of those, who love to ruminate on men and things long since passed away.
I have given such extracts from Mr. Bedwell*s* History of Tottenham, printed in the year 1631, as have occurred to me to be appropriate, and also from the MS. of the late Henry Lord Colerane*s History of Totten- hamf On the more modem points of the hbtory of the parish, I
• He was Vicar of Tottenham from the year 1607 to the year 1632. t The MS. is in the Bodkian Library.
vi. INTRODUCTION.
have been enabled to add much new matter, partly from my own know- ledge and researches, and partly from the kind commimications of friends.
The survey, made by order of the Earl of Dorset in the year 1619, at that time possessor of the manors and estates in Tottenham, and the modem survey of the parish, was made in the year 1798, with the engravings, are produced at more cost than thb edition will defray. The greater portion of the plates were engraved from drawings ex- pressly taken for the History of Tottenham.
It is now upwards of twenty-two years since I published the first edition of the History and Antiquities of Tottenham, now out of print, and scarcely a copy to be met with. Since the date of that publication (1818), many important and interesting documents re- lating to the parish have been collected, and consequently a very con- siderable mass of new matter is given in this edition.
It was originally my intention to have published the new matter by way of a supplemental volume to the first edition, and many of the drawings were made and engraved for that purpose ; but it appearing that very few copies of that edition were in th.e possession of the pre- sent inhabitants of the parish, I considered that it would be more ac- ceptable to publish an entirely new edition ; and under that impression I undertook the task.
The most prominent and novel feature in this second edition is, the survey of the parish, made by order of the Earl of Dorset in the year 1619, a very curious and interesting document; it has been carefully reduced from the original, in the possession of Sir WiUiam CurtiB, Bart., the lord of the manor of Tottenham, so as to make it of a size to fold up in this book : and I have given some accoimt of the ancient and other houses in the parish, some of which remain, but the greater number have been either altered or pulled down, and disappeared Alto- gether : added to which, some account of the lands subject to the great or rectorial tithes, is given in this edition.
I have also given some account of a valuable collection of Drawings, in water colour, by that eminent artist. Turner, in the possession of B. G. Windus, Esq. of Tottenham Green, which will afford interest to those who have a taste for the fine arts ; and an account of a sanguinary
INTRODUCTION. rU.
duel fought between Sir Edward Sackville and Lord Edward Broce^ un- der the walla of Bergen-op-Zoon, in the year 1613 ; in which Lord Ed- ward was killed.
In addition to what has already been mentioned respecting the con- tents of this booky it may be necessary to apprise the reader that there are three appendicxs to the first Tolmne, which, from the vast informa- tion they contain as regards the manors and estates in this parish form- erly in the possession of the late Lord Colerane, will be found extreme- ly useful. The First Appendix contains some account of Bruce Castle^ Mount Pleasant, Grove House, the Manors, Manor Farms, &c. which were in the year 1789, and subsequent years, sold to several in- dividuals. The Second Appendix contains the abstract of the title of the late Lord Colerane to the manors and other estates in this parish, commencing in the year 1717, and carried down to the year 1805: this abstract will be found useful to those individuals who have purchased partions of those estates, and hold under that title. The Third Appen- dix contains an abstract of the title of Sir William Barkham, who held considerable property in this and the adjoining parish of Edmonton, which was also sold at different times to several individuals ; this abstract also will be useful to those who hold estates in this parish under that title, which commences in the year 1683, and is continued down to the year 1790, a period of 107 years.
Hiese Appendices may be considered useful incidents to the His- tory of Tottenham, inasmuch as by referring to them, an easy access is given to information respecting the title under which most of the pro- perty in this parish is held, without the trouble or inconvenience of having recourse to the original titie deeds.
The Tournament of Tottenham, which concludes the second volume, the next in consideration, is doubtless a very ancient burlesque poem, founded upon the feodal custom of marrying an heiress to the knight who should vanquish all his opponents at a solemn assembly holden for that purpose ; probably there is no instance of this so late as the age of Edward HI. (the date of this poem,) when the reasons of feodal polity were worn avray, and society had advanced to a stage at which such means of supplying the kingdom with able defenders were no longer requisite. But that this had been the prevailing usage in more early
viii. INTRODUCTION.
times appears from the frequent allusions to it in the old romances, re- presenting the manners of that remote period.
In conclusion, I may venture to add, that history is a subject universally approved, and agreed by all the learned world to be, in the highest degree, both useful and entertaining ; and Topography more especially, it being so peculiarly suited to the genius of these times, and the near affinity Historical Antiquities have to that of Science ; for Antiquity discovers the original of laws, customs, and manners of early times, whilst History shows the causes of their institutions.
Nor has my view of records, immediately relating to this parish, in many instances which I have consulted, a little contributed to qualify me for the undertaking : this means has also enabled me to serve such persons as have lost their grants or charters, and who would know the privileges belonging to the several manors ; these evidencing their rights and immunities.
Those who mistook their interests, and even delayed and denied me the opportunity of asserting their rights, must pardon the defects they may meet with, owing to such their neglect and delay
Some things foreign to the subject are here and there interspersed in the following pages, which I have borrowed from g^od authorities, and inserted for the diversion of those who shall peruse the work.
It is not unlikely this account of Tottenham may have many imper- fections; whoever will therefore inform me of such, may expect my grateful acknowledgments; and I may perhaps ask this fa- vour as a debt to justice, afler I have employed so much cost, time, and pains, in the service of my fellow-parishioners and the public. Nor will I fail, in case these collections gain a favourable reception, to correct the errors that may be discovered; and I shall not think the time, charge, or study, ill bestowed in compiling this history of the parish.
I have now to acknowledge the ready and very prompt assistance I have received from Sir William Curtis, Bart., Lord of the Manors of Tottenham ; Sir Frederic Madden ; Sir Henry Ellis ; the Rev. George Hodgson Thompson, Minister of Trinity Chapel, Tottenham ; Henry Lewis Smale, Esq. ; Benjamin Godfrey Windus, Esq. ; and T. W. Hill, Esq., of Bruce Castle ; which I do, with many thanks for their indi- vidual kindness and prompt attention to my enquiries.
INTRODUCTION. «.
A book of this nature is not evanescent, but destined for a Btandinf( reootd of the paiish and its muniments, and in some measure a safk- •VAKD to the estates of the individual proprietors.
in preparing this book for publication, it must be evident that much time has been occupied, and considerable cost incurred— a recompence fixr vrhich I can scarcely expect :— -be that as it may, I am contented with bavmg attempted to give my fellow parishioners some little information regardizig the parish generally, which I hope will prove both amusing and useful, not only at the present time, but in times to come.
Tottenham,
June, 1840.
CONTENTS OF VOL I.
PAGE
Air, wholesome and salubrious 4
Ancient houses, formerly imis 61
Association for preventing depredations, (see Police) 74
Asplins Farm 132
Appendix Nos. I, II, III, (see the end of the Contents)
Alfred, King, drains the marshes, and lays the Danish Fleet dry at Hert- ford 162
Ancient wells *. 19
Anne, St., Chapel of 16
Basilical way, or Roman Road 3
Boundaries and extent of parish 1
Ditto 156
Beer Shops, licensed 66
Bridges, ancient 41
over the New River ib.
Black House, the 97
Percy family, descent of the 100
Bishops Well 18
Bruce Castle, formerly the ancient manor house of Bruses 215
Bruce Castle School 219
Bushey Hangre Farm 131
Bruce Grove 95
Bruses, manor of 164
Baliol, manor of 166
Bruce, Lord Edward, killed in a duel 208
Cross, Tottenham High • 91
Calamitous fire 76
Chalk and Chalk Hills, geological account of 7
Chapel, Trinity, Tottenham Green 79
Church Farm 133
Crows Nest Farm 133
Collections, numerous, from Books, Manuscripts, Acts of Parliament,
&c. 8lc,, in illustration of the history of the River Lea 27
Copyhold Tenants of the Manor of Tottenham, in the year 1467 171
Ditto in the year 1839 77
Church Road 96
Customs, ancient, of the Manor of Tottenham 186
Curtis, Sir William, Lord of the Manor 200
Cymro, Bod, ViUa 130
CONTENTS. »i.
rAOB
De La Haize'a House lU
Demesne Lands of the Manor 201
DiTiskm of the Parish 14
Depredations, preTention of 74
Dunstan's Well 19
Duel, fittal, (fought in the year 1613) between Sir Edward SackvtUeand Lord Bruce ; and the discovery of the Embahned Heart of Lord
Bmoe, at CtUross, in Scotland, in 1808 308
Duel, between John Nelham and John Whiston 80
Drawings, original, valuable collection of, in water colour, in the pos- session of B. G. Wmdus, Esq., Tottenham Green 81
Daubeneys, manor of 160
Danes', the, sail up the River Lea through the Marshes to Hertford, in
the year 894 149
Dov'ootes, Ducketts, sometimes called Dockettis, manor form of 241
Etymology of the name of Tottenham 2
Etoy, St. Chapel of 16
Encroachments in the Marshes 144, 145
Extracts from the Court Rolls respecting encroachments in the Marshes 146
Forest of Middlesex 47
Fountains 11
Farms.— Tottenham Wood 54
Bushey Hangre 131
Asplins 132
Crows Nest 133
Church 134
Fire, calamitous 76
Freeholders of Tottenham, in the time of Elizabeth ^ 196
in the year 1839, who registered fb vote for
Knights of the Shire for Middlesex 198
Free Tenants of the maaor of Tottenham, in the 7th year of Edw. IV. . . 171
Greens.— Wood Green 58
West Green ib.
Dufikett's Green 69
Chapman's Green ib.
Elses Green ib.
Hangre Green ib.
Beans Green ib.
Smith Cross Green ib.
Page Green ib.
Tottenham (High Cross) Green 79
Scotland Green 59
sii. CONTENTS.
PAOB
Groves, the, at Tottenham Green 121
Bruce Grove 95
Haiie, De La Haize's House 114
Hermitage and Chapel of St. Anne 18
St. Eloy ib.
High Cross 91
Highways, an account of
Hale, Tottenham 58
Hills, chalk, geological account of 7
Houses, ancient, formerly inns 61
House, De La Haize's, (residence of the late William Salte, Esq.) .... 114
Grove 117
Inns, ancient 61
licensed victualling houses 66
Inquisitionem post mortem, relating to the manors, from 16 Edw. 3, to
1 Edw. 4 206
Knights of the Shire for Middlesex, list of voters for, in Tottenham, 1 839 72
Lanes and highways 60
Lammas lands 138
Lands, principal proprietors of 69
subject to the great tithes (see Tithes) 227
Demesne, in 1619 (see Manor of Tottenham) 201
Lea, river, books, M3S., acts of parliament, kc. in illustration of 27
Danes' sail up, through the Marshes to Hertford 149
Loyalty of the inhabitants 72
Liberties or customs of the manor 186
Lost manor, a 264
Manufiu:tory, the Caoutchouc 66
Crape 68
Mount Pleasant or Downhills 116
Mark-fleld House 123
Mills, Tottenham Com and Oil 136
Marshes and Common Fields 138
Lammas Land ib.
various encroachments, means used for preventing the same . . 144
drained by King Alfred 152
and Lammas lands, Extracts from the Court RoUa, respecting the 1 46
Manor of Tottenham 161
division of the 163
annual rent and suit of court, as in 7 Edw. 4 . • , . 171
roNTENTS. Kiii,
PAOK
liuor of Tottcohun, Bztiaeu»Tariottt,froai an andcAt book in the pos-
wiunof Sir WIDiam Curtis, Bart., relating to 180 diTiaions of ground of the, with number of acrca in
each 18«
ancient liberties and cuitoma of the ••• ib.
tenantsof, in the year 1840 100
lordoftbe 900
officers • •••••••. ib.
demesne lands of the • ••• SOI
ancient records relating to the 203
Inquisitiones post mortem 306
Brasei •... 164
Baliol or Dawbeneys 166
Pembrokes , 167
Mockinga • ••.... •• 168
Ditto 263
Docketts, and fium of ditto 241
WiDougfaby 251
Twyford, or Bfartienes •••■••••••••••••••••••••••••• .• ib.
Stonekys 252
a Lost 254
house of Bruses, called Bruce Castle 216
Mockings, manor of •...••.•••.••••..•.. 168, 253
Moselle RiTer • • 40
Villa 128
Proverbs. • •••.. 55
Plants^ nre ...••••. • • 56
Police, Metropolitan 75
Percy fiunily, pedigree of the • 100
Parsonage or Rectory House • 223
Proprietorsof lands in the parish in 1619 .•••••••• 69
Penmbnlation in the year 1726 •• 156
in the year 1802 157
Pembrokes, manor of •••••••.•••••.•..• • • 167
Rrrcr Lea, particulars respecting the . • • 19
act obtained for a new cut from the • . 20
•everal since 21
obstructions to the passing of waste water to the oU cut . • 22 evil thereof preiented by the parish of Totten- ham in Hilary Term, 1829 23
naTigation 24
streams received by the 38
bridges and fords • • • • 30
xiv. CONTENTS.
PAGE
River, New, BedweU's account of the 31
ftirther remarks respecting the 32
shares (original) in the, and value thereof 34
present value of • 36
bridges, various 41
River MoseUe • 37
Road, the Seven Sisters • 45
expenses attending making the same • • • 46
Reynardson's house, particular account of 102
Row's house, Mr., on Page Green •• 127
Railway, Northern and Eastern 153
Rectorial Manor of Pembrokes, and the Great Tithes 222
Rectory House 223
Records, Ancient, relating to the Manors • 203
Rental of the Manors of Tottenham, and Perquisites, 10 Hen. IV 180
Road, the Church 06
Roman Road, or Badlical way • ....•• ...•.»•.. 3
Salte's House 114
Seven Sisters 44
Soil and Air, description of 4
St. Eloys* WeU 17
Springs, and origin of 12
Swan Inn, the, at Tottenham High Cross 94
the favourite resort of Izack Walton, the angler 95
Starr Hall, the ancient site of 134
Streams, Tottenham Mill 24
Ship Yard on Tottenham Green 80
Stoneleys, manor of 252
Tenanu, Free, of the manor of Tottenham, in the 7th £dw. 4 171
Tottenham, etymology of the name of •• 2
Green 79
interesting antiquities relating to 80
Wood 50
Farm 54
Tithes, Great 222
lands in the parish subject to the, and their measurement. • 337
composition for.. •..........••.., 225
Twyford, or Martienes, manor of • 251
Victualling houses in the parish • 65
Villa,MoseUe 130
Bod Cymro 1 28
Voters for knighU of the shire for Middlesex, in 1 839 77, 198
CONTENTS. XT
TAQE
Water, formerly bad ..•• 5
remedied by sinking weUi, and boring to the main
*|>riag •••• ••••. ib.
Weil-boring, when introduced •....•.•• • . • . 9
experiments, where tried ib.
prices o^ and weU-dnking •••....•. 10
beneficial eifects of, where to be seen • 11
interesting particnlan reining thereto 13
Wells, St Ley's 17
Dunstanis 19
Bishop's 18
Lady's, (Tulgarly called ^ My Lod^ffiole.) 18
Willoiigbby House 107
Bfanor 251
Wooden, the Three (trees) 43
Wood, Tottenham ••• 60
Spott<»'s, otherwise Spotton's Grove 19
Wood'a HoQie, Dean 93
White Hall 124
DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER,
FOR PLACING THE MAFS AND PLATIS IN VOL. I.
. . FAOl
1. The Ancient Map (1619) before Uie Frontispiece ..
^ 2. Tottenham High Cross (Frondspiece) 1
^ 3. The Geological Map 8
* 4. Fountain .." 11
* 5. Geological Section of a Well 18
''• 6. Seven Sisters 44
^ 7. Tottenham Hale 58
^ 8. Plan of the Estate, comer of White Hart Lane 62
^ 9. Tottenham Green 79
MO. Shipyard 80
^11. The Etching of Tottenham Cross (1805) 91
"^12. Dean Wood's House 93
"^ 13. Reynardson's House 102
^ 14. "Willoughby House 1^7
^15. De La Haize*s House (otherwise Salte*s House). ... 114
^16. Mount Pleasant (otherwise called Down Hills) .... 116
^ 17. Grove House 118
' 18. Mark-field House 128
"^ 19. White Hall 124
' 20. Mr. Row's House, at Page Green 127
^21. Tottenham Mills 135
^ 22. Extract from Domesday Book 161
^ 23. Bruce Castle (a. d. 1666) 217
* 24. Bruce Castle School 219
^ 25. The Rectorial Manor House of Pembroke's 222
*" 26. Duckett's Manor House 241
^ 27. Map of Coleman's Nursery Ground, Appendix No. I. 26
"^ 28. Map of Bushey Hangre Farm, ibid 30
^ 29. Map of Ducketfs Farm, ibid 34
INDEX TO NAMES,
VOL, I.
^^•^^'I0»^^^^^*^^>i^^f*^0k0*^»^*^^^*^>^^^^>0^^^0^^***^m
Ailen, William, 53. Allaidy 63. Angle, James, 244. Agoilkm^ 8ir Robert, 107, 251. Aideaoif, John, 120. Abrahams, 124. Andrews, 124. Anniger, Jeremiah, 147. AshweU, Thomas, 155. Audlej, Hugh, 171. Thomas, 171.
Baxter, William, 2.
De Bros, John and others, Co- heirs of the Earl of Chester, 163.
De Bras, Robert, 164. Richard, 164.
Bnrghley, Lord, 28.
Brace, Lord Edward, 214.
Bull, William, 142, 148.
Bmce, Robert. 215.
Basshe, — ^ 29.
Ben, —V 136.
Buckhnrst, Lord, 252.
Bedwell, William, 31, 38, 41 , 42, 43, 44, 52.
Borgoyne, Thomas, 242.
Bofaner, -— ^ 31.
Boon, John, 148.
Bmshford, John, 54.
Bentley, Thomas, M.D. 222. Bajlisy Messrs., 68.
A •
Bimie, Thomas Trench, 242.
Beale, Stephen, 223.
Bean,—, 80.
Binns, — , 120, 123.
Barkham, Aldennan, 80.
Edward, Esq., 123, 124, 131.
Sir Edward, 99.
Beanmont^s Family, 107.
Beachcroft, Mrs. 255.
Browne, Sir Wiscan, 108.
Bowry, John, 109* Lucy, 110.
Bowry*s Family, and Succes- sors, 110.
Baker, Barnard, 255.
Bayson, Archibald, 112.
Brown, John, 131.
Blakesley, — , 132.
Baxter, Robert, 244.
Beauchamp, £unily of 124.
Bolton, Abraham, 131. Thomas, 153.
Boddington, — , 125.
Beeson, John, 133.
Bareing, Sir Francis, and Fa- mily, 130.
Burrough, J., 254.
Coke, Honourabls Sir John,
14, 98, Chauncey, Charles Snell, 16,
109.
XVllI,
INDEX TO NAMKS, VOL I.
Colerane, Hugh Lord, 171.
Henry Lord, and de- scendants of, 171.
Lord, 15, 99, 146, 156, 217, 242.
Cock, Jolin, 136, 155.
Cole, Anthony, 222.
Csraar, Sir Julius, 54.
Curtis, Sir William, 140, 171, 202.
Coleman, William, 62, 97.
Clay, Thomas, 202, 254.
Curling, — , 62.
Chancellor, William, 63.
Compton, Lord, 170, 253.
Sir William, and Fa- nuly, 170, 215
Lady Anne, 242.
Comyn, Rev. T. 130.
Coar, Thomas. 81.
Candeler, Richard, 82.
Candeler, Mrs. 131.
Cook, Thomas, 148.
Comey, — , 93.
Cavendish John, 167.
Crispe, Nicholas, Esq. 103
Chassareau, — , 254.
Collet, Peter, 108,
Chappie, William, 1 1 8.
Cottin, — , 120.
Chiswell, and others, 242.
Chatteris, — , 120.
Coney, Bicknell, 124.
Cooper, Richard, 127, 132. — , 253.
Curtoys and Mathew, 136.
Clarkson, — , 132.
Crew, Anthony, 131.
Cherry, —,131.
Chapman, George, 132. Chalkley, and others, 134.
Delano, 60. 132. 155. Dawbeney, William, 166. Sir Qilcs, 167. Dawson, Roger, 76, 130. Delano, WiUiam, 254. Dean, James, 97. Dyson, Charles, 112, 133.
Daniel, 112. Dermer, Miss, 115. De la Fontaine, B. £., 130. Dickinson, Rivers, 130. Dorset, Thomas, earl of, 170 Dover, John, 241. Dias Santos, Cajaton, 255.
Exeter, — , 82.
Ede, John, 218. ^
Eaton, — , 82.
Earl of Chester, 163.
Eyre, James, 223.
ELington, Thomas, 252.
Fletcher, George, 14. Joseph, 219. Fortescue, Sir John, 83. Fitz Stephen, — , 82. Forster's, family of, 18, 102. Foster, Sir Michael, 117. Forster, William, 84, 106. Forster, Josiah, 107. Fanshawe, Thomas, 28. Fenton, T., 97.
Joseph, 124. Fleetwood, Recorder, 29. French, William, 130. Freer, — , 62.
INDEX TO NANESy VOL. 1.
xix.
Fmney, Thomas, 63. Frebout, Louis, 66. Freeholders and Copyholders, names of, 77.
Qore, Gerard, 14, 98. Gasson, James, 42. Grover, — , 55. Ginn, G^rge, 254. Goddard, T., 62. Goodacre, — , 63. Garman*8, family of, 63. Garman, Thomas, 63. CKbson, Thomas, 75. Godfirey, Michael, 99. Gough, — , 106. Gittins, B. and S., 134. Glover, Susannah, 134. Gedeney, John, 166, 169. 's fiunily, 169.
Holt, 11. Holt, Misses, 13. Harding, — , 16. Husbands, Rev. J., 156. Hnnsden, Lord, 29. Hudde, Thomas, 29. Hume, ^, 48. Hyggnes, — , 54. Hunter, — ^ 62. Herbert, — , 66, 68. Home, — , 76. Holbrook, James, 96, 134. Hare, Gonstantia, 99. Howard, Luke, 106. Hastings, Lord, 108. Hoby, Sir PhiHp, 108. Heyman, Sir Peter, 109. Howson, John, 112.
Hyde, William, 112.
Heyboum, Sir Ferdinando, 113.
Hicks, Sir Michael, 118.
Heathcote, — ,117
Hardwicke, hoiri Chancellor, 118.
Hale, — , 120.
Hibbert, Charies, 121.
Hobeon, William, 123.
Hurst, — , 124.
Harvey, James, 128. Jacob, 143.
Home, Thomas, 130.
Hill, Sergeant, 139
Heraud, Abraham, 155.
Hethe, Sir Thom<is, 165.
Hastings, Henry de, and fa- mily, 167.
descend- ants of, 168.
Heidon, Sir John, 211.
Hill, Messrs., 219.
Howard, Lord "William, 222.
Heathcot, — , 234.
Hewett, — , 244.
Hickman, — , 254.
Isaac, — , 61. Imeson, ^>, 84.
John St., Josiah, 62. John of Gaunt, 65. Jansen, — , 76. Janson, Edward, 130. Johannot, Mrs. 135.
J., 148. Jermyn, Stephen, 223.
Kidston, Thomas, 112.
XX,
INDEX TO NAMESj VOL. I.
Knightly, — , 147.
Lacy and Fisher, 66. Lock, Matthew, 82, 134. Lawford, — , 117. Lear, George, 134. Leget, Ekningus, 168. Lee, Ayton, 218. Lee, Richard, 218.
Mathewy Nathaniel, 9, 136.
Mayo, — , 11.
Myddelton, Sir Hogh, 32, 34,
36. Muswell, Lady of, 37. Mitchell, — , 55. Miller, Christopher, 57.
Elizabeth, 57. Maccaughey, Mrs., 76.
Hugh, and family, 129. Morris, Sir Christopher, 83. Manchell, John, 108. Mitchell, Thomas, 112. Mead, William, 128. Moffett, Thomas, 134. Mores, Edward Rowe, 142. Mockings, John, 168. Moyse, John, 252.
Nelham and Whiston, 80. PHcholson, Ralph, 106. Northampton, John, 167.
James, 167. Noel, Robert, 222. North, Lord Edward, 242.
Osborne, — , 118.
Parkins, — , 2.
Patrick, — , 11. Pennett, Richard, 254. Pratt, Charles, 62, 63, 116,
136. Pynson, 252. Pomfret, J., 63. Proprietors of Land in 1600,
names of, 69. Phesaunt, Jasper, 108. Plackett, Joseph, 143, 156. Perkyn, 18. Pulford, Ferdinando, 16.
Richard, 131. Paine, Thomas, 72, 73. Edwin, 135, 253. Peile, Solomon, 80. Patience, — , 80. Pownall, — , 93. Pryor, George, 109. Charles, 109. Page, Abraham, 109. Phillips, Miss, 248.
— , 117. Price, Sir James, 131. Proctor, William, and Family,
125, 126, 127. Porday, A. J., 148. Preston, Sir Robert, 214. Parkes, \^illiam, 242. Poppam, Sir Francis, 242.
Robinson, William^ 35, 75. Robinson, Arthur, 18. Row, William, 9, 81, 127.
James, 9, 128. Rhodes, Thomas, 55, 58, 239. Reynardson, Sir Abraham, 79,
102. Reynardson, Samuel, 105.
INDKX TO NAMES, VOL. I.
zxi.
Robertson, Thomas, 112. Ropton, — , 1 14. Repton, Humphrey, 128. Ridge, Samuel, 133. Ratcliff, Mrs. 133. Risley, Sir John, 1 70.
Smith, Thomas, 8, 14, 95, 120. 171, 202,218, 253.
Smale, Henry, 11, 112.
Staples,—, 14.
Saunders, Charles, 18.
Salter, William, 15.
Smeaton, — , 30.
Sperling, Henry Piper, 18, 35,
148, 223, 224, 241. Sanderson, Thomas, 42. Stephenson, Rowland, 116. SneU, — , 42.
Sparks, Thomas Holmes, 63.
Sparks, Robert, 76, 130.
Syms, John, 81.
Shuttleworth, G. E 81, 155.
Soames, Charles, 97, 125.
Smithson, Sir Hugh, 98, 99.
Samuda, David, 1 20.
Shadbolt, — , 120, 121.
Simmonds, William May, 124.
Sheldon, William, 128.
Swinnerton, Thomas, 133.
Spigumell, Richard, 165, 168.
Shobbedon, Walter, 165.
Stockton, John, 170.
Sutton, Thomas, 1 70, 242.
Sackville, Sir Edward, 208-9.
Scott, Sir Edward, 242. Scales, Edward, 252. Sanchez, Balthazar, 252, 253. Scanow, Christopher, 252.
A • •
Tibbe, 13. Townsend, Mrs. 1 8. Townsend, James, 25, 55, 1 17,
134,136,143,171,215,217.
Townsend, Henry Hare, 117, 135, 171, 253.
Townsend, Chauncey, 117.
Tadde, John, 54.
Tempestes, Mrs. 54.
Tuck, 61, 224.
Thompsom, John, 80.
Towgood, Miss, 81.
Testard, James, 130.
Thompson Rev. G. H., 132.
Tyson, — , 147.
TiU, Richard, 155.
Tumant, Richard, 170.
Trench, Dr. Edmund, 242.
Twyford, John, 251.
Udney, Mrs. Mary, 223.
Wilkinson, — , 5. Wickis, Anthony, 145. Wilcoxe, — , 38, 42. Wall, — , 61.
Wihnot, 76,130,218,224. Whybro, Edward, 80. Whyburd, Edward, 135, 143. Windus, B. G., 83, 87, 89. Windus, Edward, WiUiam, 84. Wilkinson, Thomas, 84. Westwood, Humphrey, 222. Wylghby, PhiHp, 107. WUdman, William, 112. Williams, 128, 131. Ward, W. 128. Wright, William, 224. Wakering, John, 244, 246. Wrothe, Sir Robert, 249. Wanley, George, 156.
ZXll.
INDEX TO NAMES, VOL. 1.
IN THE APPENDICES.
Alliston, — , 31, 32. Angle, James, 33. Audley, Hugh and Thomas, 37. Adair, William, 52, 53, 56.
Berbeck, — , 6. Boon, — , 7, 8. Bannister, William, 8, 10. Baines, — , 8, 10. Bentley, — , (now Levick) 9. Buckingham, John, 10. Barclay, — , 13. Brown, Charles, 13. BeD, Edward, 14. Binns, — , 19. Baylis and Co., 30. Bennett, Nehemiah, 39, Bassett, William, 41, 49, 52. Basset (Widow) 52, 61. Baker, Henry, 46. Bruce, Edward, 55. Barre, Right Hon., 56. Barkham, Sir William, 75. Barkham, Sir Edward, 75, 78. Bray, Widow, 77. Bridgeman, Edward, 77. Beauchamp, 79, 82, 85, 87. Bull, WiUiam, 83, 84, 86.
Colerane, Lord, 3, 37, 38, 39, 40, 42, 49, 52, 54, 58, 61, 68, 72, 83.
Coleman, William, 4, 27, 54.
Cranmer, 4.
Comyn, 6.
Carter, Mrs., 11.
Chance, Thomas, 14.
Curtoys, 14.
Cock, John, 14.
Cook, John, 15.
Chase, 15.
Curtis, Sir William, 20, 72.
Clackson, 31.
Compton, Lord William, 37.
Croft, Richard, 55.
Cardfile, WiUiam, 66, 70, 72,
Coney, Robert, 79.
Codrington, William, 83.
Dermer, Miss, 4, 13.
Dermer, Mr., 10.
Dyson, Charles, 13, 21.
Dyson, John, 21. Delano, 28.
Dorset, Earl of, 37.
Duplesses, 40, 42, 46, 52.
Forster, G., 20. Furnish, William, 21.
Foster, John, 60. Francklyn, Sir William, 75. Folkes, Martin, 75.
Green, Mrs., 10.
f
INDEX TO THE NAMES, APPENDICES.
XXIll.
Grover, Daniel, 10. Grant, 11. Guest. 12. Gannan, 20. Gilbert. William. 37. GiUingham, Roger, 75. Gilbert, Thomas, 79. Gent, Thomas, 83,
Holbrook, William, 6, 61. Holbrook, James, 6. Holt, 6. Holmes, 9.
Hnggins (now Atkins), 9. Hoy (now Weetly), 9. Harkley, 10.
Hollingworth, Thomas, 12, 67 Harvey, Anthony, 12, 67. Hunt, PhiHp, 12. Hindle, John, 13. Hunt, Richard, 14. Herbert, 30. Hanger, 39. Hare, 39, 48. Harwood, Ralph, 68. Houson, James, 70. Halsey, Thomas, 75, 79. Holloway, Thomas, 77. Hainsworth, Henry, 83. Hill, Richard, 83. Hughes, Richard, 88.
Jennyn, Stephen, 23. Jennens, William, 65. Jennens, Sir Jonathan, 79.
Knight, Lydia, 41.
Knight, Robert, 41,48, 51, 61.
Knight, Henry, 41, 49, 52, 61
Lc^sden, 10.
Lee, Thomas, 13.
Loeffs, Abraham, 37
l^rdell. John. 39-
lAnc, Thomas, 48.
Law, Thomas, 48, 51, 65.
Lansdown, Marquis of, 56, 60.
Mathew, 14. MitcheU, 11. Morrison, Bewley, 12. Mountford, Richard, 13. Monteagle, Lord, 37. Middleton, 49, 52, 56, 60. Maddison, John, 52, 60. MitcheU, Michael, 60. Mills, Frands, 85.
Nightingale (now Corby), 9. Newnham (now Rawbone), 9' Noble, William, 65, 60.
PhiUips, 4, 26.
Paine, Edwin, 5, 7, 15.
Perry, 10.
Pool, 10.
Porter, 10.
Pitt, John, 14.
Pratt, Charles, 14.
Porker, John, 43, 45, 49, 53.
Phipps, Samuel, 46, 56, 60.
Payne, Edward, 55.
Parrott, John, 77.
Proctor, William, 80.
Parry, 83,
Palmer, Robert, 87.
Rochester, 9. Ridge, 21.
XXIV.
INDEX TO THE NAMES^ APPENDICES.
Roper, Matthew, 39. Rice, George, 44, 49, 62. Randall, Samuel, 76. Robinson, 78, 80. Rogers, 41, 83. Sutton, Thomas, 37. Shelboume, Earl of, 43. Spencer, 43, 49, 52, 60. Stephenson, Edward, 50. Smith, John, 52, 55, 60, 63. Smith, Charles, 61, 63. Stephenson, Rowland, 68. Smith, George, 71. Smithson, Anthony, 75. Salter, Edward, 77. Spencer, Lawrence, 80. Strong, Edward, 80. Strong, Thomas, 81. Sheldon, WiUiam, 82. Smith, Thomas, 4, 12, 19, 66. Smithson, Mock, 4. Salte, Samuel, 4, 67. Stephenson, Rowland, 4. Sharp, 8.
Sykes, Thomas, 61. Smith, 9. Straffon, 9. Skinner, 10. Smythe, John, 13. Shadbolt, Charles, 20. Sperling, H. P., 24, 67. Sanders, Thomas, 29. Soames, 30. Sack^dllc, Earl of Dorset, 37.
Spencer, Sir John, 37.
Tuck, Charles, 21. Tulk, John Steward, 50. Todd, Thomas, 52, 60.
Townsend, James, 3, 19, 48,
51, 55, 57.
Henrietta, 45, 49,
52, 55, 61.
Townsend, Henry Hare, 3, 19,
53, 55, 60, 69, 72. Townsend, Mrs., 66. Townsend, Henrietta Jemima,
63. Tower, Christopher, 80. Tower, Thomas, 87. Tooke, Thomas, 80.
Vaughan, 6, 67.
Usher, 20.
Wyburd, 4, 14, 54, 67. Woolmer, George, 6. White, James, 8. Wilmott, 15, 21. Whitehead, 25. Wycombe, Baron, 43. Wooler, John, 51, 57, 60, 61. Wythered, Thomas, 77. Walpole, Robert, 79. Wilson, Thomas, 84, 86. Walker, Thomas, 87.
("yu,,;J/>«,n o.. ^'i,f, '..«//■/>«.,■,.:/ /y./?,yJ,,„//„ a„^,./l,/..,.„ ,■/ ////J. f,,:./. ..
Tottenham Cross
THE
HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES
OP TRB PARISH OF
TOTTENHAM,
IN THE COUNTY OP M1DDLESBX.
ITS BOUNDARIES, EXTENT, AND NAME.
Tottenham^ in the ancient record of Domesday Book, is called Toteham: it is a part of the hundred of Edmonton, in the county of Middlesex, and situated, in latitude, 5V 35^ 59'^ N., longitude, O** 4'3r'W., from Greenwich, about five miles north of London. It is bounded on the east by Walthamstow, in Essex, from which it is separated by the river Lea ; on the west by Homsey and Fryem Bamet ; on the north by Edmonton ; and on the south by Hackney and Stoke Newington. The highway, which is part of the main road from Scotland to London, and which passes through Tottenham, was measured in the year 161 1, and at that time, the parish was two miles and a quarter in length from north to south ; and extended on the south and south-west sides to the confines of Stoke Newington and Homsey, about two miles and a half ; then going towards the north-west to Bets'-stile, five miles ; fit>m which point, by the boundaries of Edmonton to Higham Hill, in Essex, it measures five miles; so that the circuit or compass of the parish in the whole is about fifteen or sixteen miles. It is estimated to contain between four and five thousand acres of land, including the marshes, which contain about two hundred and ninety -eight acres ; of which one-eighth part is arable^ and the remainder grass. The form of the parish is irr^ular, and of a mixt figure, compounded of quadrate and triangle: which figure is by the ancients called trapezoides.
B
^ THE ETYMOLOGY OF THE
The etymology of the name is from the Saxon words Totia and Ham; the first of which signifies to project with a long end or comer like a hom^ and is supposed in this instance to originate from the form of the western part of the parish, i Mr. Parkins 2 makes Tot or 7\it, the name of a rividet, and thence derives the name. Bedwell finds a resemblance in situation be- tween Totham^ in Essex^ putting itself &r into the sea^ and Tot- nesSy in Devonshire. It occurs in many places besides, as Tote- hele, Totehally now Tottenham Court, Totteridge, &c.
It may also be conjectured that Tottenham was the mansion, residence, or estate of Tota : — for places have more frequently de- rived their names from their owners than their situation. Ham,iJxe latter word is common, and is particularly used at the end of many proper names of places, and signifies a town or dwelling place.
And fiirther, respecting the name of Tottenham^ Mr. William Baxter, the eminent scholar and antiquary, who was master of the Free Grammar School at Tottenham, says '' As the Goths and Lombards by mis-spelling and mis-pronouncing the Latin tongue^ made that jargon that former times called Romant, and the Franks again out of the Romant made French ; so did the Nor- mans terribly murder the old Saxon tongue left amongst us in such a sort after their conquest, scarce any English word scaped alteration, but came to be disguised by various writings of it; thus, out of the Saxon Deodholm and Deodanholm they made Toteham, Thoteham, and Totenham. The word ham, heim, heym, and hiemme, the same which the Goths of Uphila's time called haim, but truer, helm or holm, whence our English word home, signified all sorts of enclosures." " So in Uphila's gospels it stands for ager, the radix of which word haim in the Go- thick, 3 also in the Swedish, holm is both an island and a house, as our home, helmet, helm, and the German hall and hals have their names from covering."
(1 ) Sec the Earl of Dorset's Survey, 1619, and the modem map of the pariah.
(2) Parkifit*8 History of Norfolk, 4. 161. (3) Diet. Goth, page 181.
NAME OP TOTTENHAM. 3
According to some authors, the ancient Roman Basilical way led thzongh part of Enfield Chase in its passage to Hertford^ which road, coming from Cripplegate, as some, and Mowgate, as others, passed through Newington, then through several green lanes to the east of Homsey, entered Enfield Chase ; and this road was (for the present north roads were not then in being) by which the Londoners marched on, with Alfired at the head, in the year 895, to a strong fortification the Danes had boilt at Hert- ford.4 For conyenience, the Lords of the hundreds first made the roads; which were made gradually. At first, we might come to Ekbnonton by going on the great Ermin Street as fiff as Homsey, then turning eastward to Edmonton, and so pro- ceed to Enfield. The Lord of the hundred, for the further con- ▼enience of its inhabitants, might cause the road to be made to Ball's Cross, and so firom thence to Waltham Cross, and so on to Hoddesdon and Ware. But at length, the Fens being drained to the east of the hundred to the River Lea, and the waters con- fined, and the lands drained, a shorter way was obtained through Tottenham, Edmonton, and Enfield, so that the new road leaves these places considerably to the left.
The modem village of Tottenham consists chiefly of one long street, formed by houses irregularly arranged on the line of the high road from London to Cambridge : it is lighted with gas and well supplied with water from fountains produced by boring : and in the immediate vicinity, there are many good houses, and some handsome villa residences. The parish is within the jurisdiction of a court of request, held at Enfield, for the recovery of small debts under forty shillings.^
Before the wars of the barons in the reign of King John (1210) the great road from the north lay through Hertford, from thence to Hatfield, and continued through Enfield Chase to Southgate, Bowes' Farm, Wood Ghreen, passing the manor house of Duckett's to a stone bridge near the confines of Tottenham, Homsey, and Stcke Newington, and then through Islington to London.
(4) See Bibl: Top: Brit: No. 14, Vol. 2. (5) Uwii' Topog. Diet. Vol. IV. Ed. 1831 .
4 SOIL AND AIR.
Previously to the year 1210^ and for some years afterwards^ the head lands^ commons^ and waste grounds and greens^ formed a very considerable part of the county of M iddlesex, which were granted to the tenants of the respective manors for pasturage for their cattle^ for fiiel^ and other necessaries ; some of them were very extensive^ and belonged to and make part of this parish^^ viz. Wood Green, West Green, Duckett's Green, Hanger Green, Beans Green, Bounds Green, Chapman's Green, Elses Green, Smith's Cross Green, Page Green, Tottenham (High Cross) Green, &c. According to the return of the state of the culture of lands in the parish,^ there are about 3932a. — viz. 2660a. of mown land, 289a. of marsh land, 650a. of fed land. 50a. of clover hay, 128a. of wheat, 125a. of potatoes, 21a. of turnips, 120a. of oats, 3a. of barley, 28a. of beans, 6a. of cabbages, 48a. in gar- dens, 34a. fallow, 48a. of tares, and Ha. of wood.
THE SOIL.
The surface of the principal part of the parish may be said to consist of a stiff heavy soil. There is, however, a diversity in it ; here and there are found patches of brick earth and loam ; and, in other places, considerable deposits of gravel : but where neither loam nor gravel is found, the vegetable mould, which in general is not yery deep, lies upon a stiff clay : near the surface it has an ochreous tinge, but at no considerable depth it is of a dark bluish or blackish colour.
THE AIR.
The air is wholesome and salubrious, and as good as any other of the neighbourhood. There are no bogs, moors, nor fens to
(6) See Pole's HUtory of Middleiez, vol. I. page 47: thU book was neyer com- pleted— vol. I. is the only part exUnt.
(7) In the year 1822-a
THE WATER. 5
infect OT distemper it. The River Lea^ with the pleasant and fer- tile meadow and Marshes^ which are sometimes overflowed in wet seasons, lies to the east of the village ; and there is no stagnant water in any part of the parish to be offensive or injurioas to health.
THE WATER.
Within the memory of many of the present inhabitants of Tot- tenham^ it was an almost qniversal complaint that no good water was to be had in the village. The wells ^ were only a few feet deep, and the supply of water uncertain, and, in many instances, not pure enough for domestic purposes. The fact is, that the wells reached only to the blue clay, and therefore their depth de- pended on that of the superstratum, namely, of the gravel or loam lying upon the clay. In the loam there are some salts, which, being taken up by the water during percolation, renders it what is termed hard.
The complaint of the badness of the water of Tottenham has been effectually removed in most parts of the parish, and might in all. The clay, from the sur&ce of which the water was for- merly obtained, and to which it is nearly, if not absolutely imper- vious, has been bored through in many parts to the main spring, affording a never failing supply of remarkably clear and brilliant water, which is particularly soft, and is consequently adapted to every domestic purpose. An analytical chemist has tried it with the usual tests, and finds it to be of uncommon purity, and almost perfectly free from the presence of salts.
The depth of the wells varies from about 110 to 150 feet ; and when the water is arrived at in sinking some of them, it rose with such rapidity, so as to overtake the well digger several times before his escape is effected. So great and invariable is the supply of water, that it overflowed a well in the premises of the late Mr. Wilkinson at Tottenham Grreen,^ near the High Cross,
(8) See the foUowing peges on the iDteresting tubject of the lource of the water suppIyiDg the deep wells in the parish, together with the geological map and section.
(9) Now the property of Benjamin Godfrey Windus, Esq.
6 THE WATER.
with a stream^ which daring several years appeared to be neither diminished by the drought of the dryest summer^ nor increased by the floods of the most rainy winter.
It is a curious and a well ascertained fiact^ that when a new well is sunk^ the depth of the water in those surrounding it^ is dimin- ished for a short time; proving incontestibly, that there exists som^ communication between them. It is certain^ that no such communication could exists except at the bottom of these wells ; and it is therefore evident that they all derive their supply from one common and immense reservoir. In some instances^ however, the water has been found to diminish gradually, and very consider- ably in depth : and wherever it has been found requisite to seek into the cause of this, it has always been found to be an accumu- lation of a silvery white sand, which has been raised by the water^ and deposited at the bottom of the well.^o
Hence it is reasonable to conclude, that all the wells are sup- plied from one common reservoir, and that the source of the water is in a stratum of sand lying beneath the blue clay, through which the wells are sunk. It becomes therefore of considerable interest, whence could have been derived so immense a body of clay, what its nature is, and what also is the nature of the stratum of sand lying beneath it ; and above all does it concern us, as regards the common purposes of life, to ascertain how so large a body of water should have found its way beneath a stratum of clay, which is im- pervious to water, and whence so constant a supply arises. These being questions of a geological nature, it is necessary to answer them briefly, but it will be requisite in so doing, to take a survey considerably beyond the boundary of the parish.
A few miles on the west, or a little to the south of the west of Tottenham, we arrive at a country, the surface of which consists of sand.ii For instance, Hounslow Heath and a large proportion of Windsor Forest are of this nature, and so is the country until we
(10) See OeDts. Mag. for Jane, 1822, for an account of boring to the main spring at Tottenham, a cheap and easy method of obtaining a neyer-fklling supply of pure spring water from any depth.
See also The Labourers' Friend, and Handicraft's Chronicle for May, 1822, No. 3. Sherwood and Co., of Paternoster Row.
(11) Sec the Geological Map.
THE WATER. 7
aime at Himgerford^ in Berkshire; in the neighbourhood of whiefa chalk hills make their a^ieanaioe. Chalk is also found at Reading; at HighWyoomb, in Backinghamshire ; near Rickmans- worth ; and Hertford^ in Hertfordshire. Newmarket Heathy in Cambridgeshire, is of chalk, which continues thence to the sea coast near Cromer, in Norfolk. These places are all on the norih- east of Hongerford, and are on a etmiinuaui range of chalk kilU, If again we start finom Hongerford, eastward, another range of chalk hills traverse the country by Ghiildford and Rochester, to Dover, on the coast of Kent.
And it is worthy of remark, that if we travel from the east of Hnngerford to the east of Cromer, it is over a wide tract of sand; and if we travel from Hnngerford to Margate, on the north of the chalk hills, we also travel on sand ; and it is equally worthy of notice, that all the wells sunk through these sands prove that th^y rest upon the chalk : in other words, that the chalk of the ranges of hills, partially surrounding us, dips beneath the sand lying every where on the surfiice, not many miles from Tottenham, and every where, for some miles surrounding Tottenham, between both the chalk and the sand. It is therefore reasonably con- dnded, that the range of hills from Hungerford to Cromer dips gently beneath the sand to the south-east, while the range from Hungerford to Dover dips gently towards the north ; that the chalk of the two ranges is connected, passing beneath Middlesex, Essex, Su£folk, and Norfolk, and even beyond them, beneath the sea^i^ bordering the coasts of the three latter counties ; we are therefore to conceive the whole of this tract to be situated in a v€ut hoUotD in the chalk, which is geologically termed the chalk bascm ci London.
It is confidently believed by geologists, that the sands already mentioned pass together with the chalk beneath the surfiice, forming the very sand, firom which rises the water supplying the weDs at Tottenham. Upon the assumption of this being the fitct, of which there exists the utmost probability, we shall be no longer at a loss to account for the origin of the great reservoir of water existing beneath the blue clay, through which the wells are sunk.
(13) See the Geolosical Map.
8 THE WATER.
The fact appears to be this— the water^ which fiedls on the sand^ together with that which passeth into it from off the chalky per- colates the stratum of sand underlying the clay : hence, when an opening is made through the clay^ the water rises nearly or quite to the surface, on the principle of its seeking its level : — ^the level of the sand at the foot of the chalk hills, and of the clay at Tot- tenham, is nearly the same.
The sand lies in a hollow in the chalk, and the clay in a hollow in the sand J 3 That both have been deposited by the sea, there is the most conclusive evidence, because sea shells are found in both. The clay lies in nearly horizontal layers which is proved by the thin stratum of sand, occasionally dis- covered in the sinking of the wells ; and also from its containing nodules of argillaceous limestone in regular strata. These nodules are termed septarii, fit>m their being divided across by partitions, or veins of calcareous spar ; and furnish the material, of which Parker*s cement is made. In forming the Tunnel in Highgate Hill, which consists of the same clay, sea shells of several kinds were found, which still retain their pearly lustre; and it is re- markable that the animal, termed the teredo navalis, or borer, from its infesting the bottom of the ships on the West India sta- tion, where now it is chiefly, if not only found, was discovered in a petrified state in the very wood, which it formerly had pierced. The Isle of Sheppey consists of the same clay : in it have been found crabs and lobsters, tortoises, nautili, and the heads and bodies of fishes mineralized by iron pyrites, and 700 varities of ligneous fruits and seed vessels, very few of which agree with any known species.
Although some of the inhabitants have obtained a good supply of excellent water from deep sunk wells to the main spring, or by boring, there are a great proportion of them obliged to buy water of the carriers, who procure it from the well on Tottenham Green, which was dug, and the pump erected, at the expence of the late Thomas Smith,!^ Esq., late lord of the manor of Tottenham, in consideration of his having been allowed to enclose a piece of the
(13) See the Geological Map. (14) Vestry Book D. September, 1791.
'■»'»■<*' t4«iw«/. Ji5)fc^ wf A*a-« JIM*
THE WATER. 9
waste land near his then residence — " Grove House.'' The parish^ though there are many meadows in it^ is by no means an unhealthy place, as the ages, to which many of the inhabitants have attained, sufficiently prove.
A well was dug a few years ago, by the late William Row, Esq. at his residence at Page Green, down to the main spring : the water rises about four feet above the surfiEtce of the ground ; flows over, and aflfords a plentiful supply of excellent water. The sur- plus water is conducted to and supplies the fish ponds in the grounds attached to his residence, and from thence takes its course into the River I^ioa.
Another well was dug a few years since, (1821) by Mr. James Row, in front of his then residence at Page Green ; the water rises about four feet above the surface, but it is brackish and not fit for culinary purposes. In the same year, Mr. Nathaniel Mathew caused the earth to be bored in a field belonging to the late WiK liam Row, Elsq., on the south side of Broad Lane, near Page Green, to the depth of 105 feet, when the main spring was tap- ped. The water here rises about six feet above the surface of the ground, and forms an elegant little fountain in the front of the gardener's cottage there. The water is soft and of an excellent quality, fit for every domestic purpose.
A similar experiment was tried by the order of the inhabitants assembled in vestry, on the waste ground, a short distance beyond the five-mile stone, opposite the Bell and Hare public house. The ground here was bored to the depth of 1 19 feet, when the main spring was tapped, and a stream issued forth with great ra- pidity, i^ The water here rises about six feet above the ground, through a tube, within a cast iron ornamented pedestal, which, flowing over the lip or edge of a vase, forms a bell-shaped contin- ued sheet of water inclosing the vase, where it is collected, and again conducted through the pedestal to the place of its discharge oat of the mouth of a dolphin, about eighteen inches from the ground. 1^ The discharge of the water was at the rate of fourteen gallons a minute.
(15) There is a similar fountain at Mitcham, id Surrey. (16) See the annexed engraving.
10 THE WATER.
The expense of boring, tin pipe, pedestal, labour, and making up the ground, was about £90. A well of similar depth, with digging, curbs, stopping out the land springs, and steining with bricks, would cost at least £100.
This fountain, which was after its completion enclosed with posts and rails, and planted round with forest trees and shrabs, had a very unique and attractive appearance.^'^
The peculiar advantage of boring the ground for water instead of digging, particularly at great depths, renders the former method of great importance to the public, since water is obtained by boring at a small expense, which is exemplified by the following table of prices :
|
DEPTH. 10 |
PRICE OF BORIMO. £. s. d. 0 3 4 |
|
|
20 30 •.•..., |
0 1 |
10 0 0 0 |
|
40 |
1 |
13 4 |
|
50 |
2 |
10 0 |
|
eo |
3 |
10 0 |
|
70 |
4 |
13 4 |
|
so |
6 |
0 0 |
|
90 •••... . |
7 |
10 0 |
|
100 110 |
9 u |
3 4 0 0 |
|
120 |
••••• 13 |
0 0 |
|
130 |
15 |
3 4 |
|
140 |
17 |
10 0 |
|
160 |
20 |
0 0 |
|
100 |
22 13 4 |
|
|
170 |
26 |
10 0 |
|
180 |
••••• 28 |
10 0 |
|
190 |
31 |
13 4 |
|
200 |
35 |
0 0 |
|
PRICE |
OF |
|
|
WELL |
8INRINO. |
|
|
£. |
«• |
d. |
|
I |
6 |
0 |
|
3 |
0 |
0 |
|
6 |
5 |
0 |
|
8 |
0 |
0 |
|
11 |
5 |
0 |
|
16 |
0 |
0 |
|
19 |
6 |
0 |
|
24 |
0 |
0 |
|
29 |
5 |
0 |
|
35 |
0 |
0 |
|
41 |
5 |
0 |
|
48 |
0 |
0 |
|
55 |
5 |
0 |
|
63 |
0 |
0 |
|
71 |
5 |
0 |
|
80 |
0 |
0 |
|
89 |
6 |
0 |
|
99 |
0 |
0 |
|
109 |
5 |
0 |
|
120 |
0 |
0 |
This table shows the price of boring and of well sinking re- spectively at every 10ft. in depth, and from 10ft. to 200ft. viz. boring, at id. per foot, for the first 10ft.; 8d. per foot for the se- en) See Genti. Ma^^. for June, 1822, and the tupplement, vol. 92, pi. I. for a flir- ther acoount of the method of boring for water, and the tools neceuary for the opera- tion.
THE WATER. 11
coud IQft.; and 4d. per foot additional and pfrogreaaive for each following 10ft. : and oi well 3inking^ at 2$. 6d, per foot for the first IQft., and Ss. Qd: per foot additional and progreasive for each snccesaiTe IQft.
Since the introductioa of this cheap and simide method of ob- taining a constant supply of water, many of the inhabitants of Tottenham have adopted it, whose example has beoi followed by many persons in the adjoining parishes, and also in the county of Essex, with success.
The ornamental purposes also to which it may be applied are innumerable, and present themselves to the man of taste in end- Jess variety of forms ; such as fountains, water-falls, or basins for dressed grounds; for baths, or for ornament, as well as far the uses of the garden, and the conservatory : but the man of science will hereafter employ it as a principle of motion, and direct it to various mechanical operations. is
In 1839, the pedestal before mentioned was removed from its <>riginal situation, to the side of the high road, and the water which came firom the mouth of the dolphin ; and instead of running to waste, as formerly, it is now conducted into two iron troughs, one on either side of the pedestal, in order to aflford water for the use of cattle passing along the road to the London markets.
Among, the number of fountains in Tottenham, obtained by borings ate those of Mr. Patrick, Mr. Mayo, and others, in Tot- tenham Hale, all produoin j^ an abundant supply of fine soft water.
There was also one in the garden at the Plough Inn, at Tot- tenham, which rose some fiset above the surface, but the propria etors of the Caootdiouc Mills having deepened the well which supplies their steam engine with water, it drew off the water firom this fountain, and it is now almost dried .up.
Henry Smale, Esq. at Willoughby House, bored to the depth of eighty feet for water, which rises about twelve feet above the surfoce ; the surplus water runs into the canal in the garden, and thence into Willoughby moat, which is in a field adjoining Mr. Smale's premises : and Mr. Holt also bored for water in Blackup Lane, which rises eight feet above the surface.
(18) See Gents. Mag. June, 1822.
12 THE WATER.
It is found that the main springs on the eastern side of the pa- rish^ towards the River Lea^ rise above the surface from six to twelve feet ; and on the west side^ the land being considerably higher than that on the east^ consequently the springs do not rise to the surface by from eight to twelve feet.
The main spring on the east side of the high road towards the River Lea is tapped at various depths^ from 80ft. to 120ft. from the surface^ as the ground declines towards that river^ and the water rises more or less according to the level.
The water, in some places towards the north and north-west of the parish^ is generally found to be strongly impregnated with iron, and sometimes with sulphur.
The origin of springs has for a loilg time occupied the atten- tion of the naturalist ; some have ascribed them to rain^ to which others had added dew and vapour : their doctrine is, that the rain water percolates the earth till such time as it meets a clayey soil^ or stratum^ which* proving a sufficient solid bottom to sustain and stop its descent, it glides along in that way to which the earth de- clines, till meeting with a place or aperture on the surface through which it may escape. ^^
Springs generally rise at the bottom of mountains or hills ; the reason is said to be, that mountains collect the most water, and give it the greatest descent the same way, and that if we some- times see springs on high grounds, and even on the tops of moun- tains^ they must be brought from other remoter places consider- ably higher^ along beds of clay, or clayey ground^ as in their na- tural channels. If then^ there happen to be a valley between a mountain, on the top of which there is a spring, and the mountain that is to furnish it with water, the spring must be looked on as water conducted from a reservoir of a certain height through a subterraneous channel to make a jet of an equal or somewhat less height.
(19) For an account of the divining rod. Bee Dr. Hutton's Recreationi in Matlie- matics and Natural Philosophy, by which springs may be discovered by walking over the ground : and also Gents. Mag. vol. 58, p. 191, for an account of the spring at Hartingfordbury, in Hertfordshire, Icnown by the name ef Aquatile Holei and to vol. 84, (1819) pt. 1. p. 620, pt. II. pp. 132-215, for accounts of using the divining rod with success.
80RED AT TOTTENHAM. MIDDLESEX 1637.
rei -JM^t/ wi^fA, 1
. n^k Sany .««& «n^ fU^tj Biut. ^''iav
Zi^Af B&tr-k •S'atlfl
''A'i'.lA ojiti fym£-t
THE WATER. 13
The origin of springs may, therefore, be ftttribated to rain, till something more decisive appears to the contrary.
The commissioners of the metropolitan roads north of London caused a well to be dug on the north-west side of the high road, at the four-mile stone, and erected an iron pump for the purpose of drawing water for the use of the road. This well, which was originally only about 20ft. deep, was bored from that depth to the main spring, and the water which flows up into the cavity affords a constant supply for the purpose of watering the road in dry sea- sons, for which purpose it is only used.
In many parts of the parish, red clay or loam fit for bricks is dog, and very good for potters ; for in the ancient poem of the Tournament of Tottenham you will find that Perkyn, the hero of the poem, who carried away Tibbe as his bride,^ was of that oc- cupation, and lived by that trade in Tottenham.
The different depth at which the main spring is reached in this parish, taking first the lower ward, the average depth is 9Qft., the middle ward, lOSft., and the High Cross ward, 125ft. ; this cal- culation is taken frt>m the sand spring below the blue and mottled clay. The quality of the water found in the sand spring is in ge- neral very pure and soft. The number of bores in the parish is about seventy. The best springs are found in the chalks below the sand spring; and the average depth to the surface of the chalk is 153ft. In boring for water (in 1837) at the residence of the Misses Holt, at Tottenham, the following is an account of the several strata through which the augur passed :2i — at 15ft. deep, the strata was sand and gravel; from thence to the depth of 56ft. it was a stiff blue clay ; and then 20ft. of mottled clay ; the next lOft. was light black sand, with shells ; the next 4fit. was blue clay; the next 3ft. dark sand, shells, and pebbles; the next 10ft. was blue clay ; the next 37ft. was light blue sand ; and then for 54ft. more it was chalk and flints ; and the whole depth of the bore was 210ft. The water rises through a cast iron tube, 4in. in diameter, to the top of the bore, which is about 6ft. below
(20) See the Tournament of Tottenham, poit p. 15. (21) From the information of Mr. Thomu Clark, well linker and borer, corner of ftfanh Lane, Tottenham.
14 THE DIVISION
the surface ; and then a tube being fixed on the top of the iron tube, rises about 6ft. above the surface of the ground^ and discharges the water at the rate of ten gallons a minate ; so that the total rise of the water is 216ft.^2
THE DIVISION OF THE PARISH.
The parish of Tottenham is divided into two parts by the little brook^ or river Moselle^ which issues out of Muswell Hill^ in the parish of Homsey^ passing along between Hornsey and Totten- ham Wood^ takes its course through the centre of the parish : this may be considered the natural division of the parish. There is another division which may be considered the civil or artificial division^ by which it is divided into four districts^ distinguished by the names of the Lower Ward, the Middle Ward, the High Cross Ward, and the Wood C5rreen Ward.
This division is unequal in respect of circuit and quantity of ground, but reasonable if you respect the number of families or population, for there is no great difierence between them all in this respect: but the Lower, the Middle, and the High Cross Wards are more thickly inhabited than the Wood Green Ward.
The Lower Ward is contained within the river Moselle, the Lea, and the north limits of the parish, and includes the parson- age and vicarage, with the lower street on both sides of the high way, with the house, which was some time before the year 1631 , oc- cupied by Mr. Gerard Gore, and then the residence and abode of the Right Honourable Sir John Coke, one or the principal Secreta- ries of State ; and all the northern limits of the parish from White Hart Lane to the house above mentioned.
The Middle Ward begins at the house formerly occupied by Mr. George Fletcher, afterwards by Mr. Thomas Smith, and now in the occupation of Mr. Staples ; and comprehends Marsh Lane, with that part of the parish which lies between the bottom of the same and the bottom of the lane leading from the
(22) This well was bored by Mr. Thomas Clark, Jun. See the Geologioal Section Map.
OF THE PARISH. 15
Manh to the Hale^ called Down Lane ; extends to the bridge^ on the north of the Cross, and contains all Chnrch End^ together with the ground between the brook or Parsonage Lane, now caUed White Hart Lane, and ends at the house before mentioned.
The High Cross Ward, beginning on the soath side of the bridge below the High Cross, opposite the Bam Houses, contains the Hale, with the com and oil mills, and all within the riyer Lea, to Stamford Hill, and ail Page Green and the High Cross ; and is bounded on the north by a straight line, drawn from the said bridge to the river Lea ; on the east and south, by the limits of the parish, and by the outside of the high road on the west.
The Wood Oreen Ward contains more than thrice so great an extent of ground than all the others; for it comprehends all the rest of the parish not reckoned in the former, as limits or mem- bers of them: it extends to Bets'-stile, and includes West Green, Wood Green, Hanger's Lane, Dovecotes, or Ducket's farm, the Hill Wood, Chapman's Green, Tottenham Wood, and Bounders' Brook.
The parish is again divided into two parts, but very unequally, by the present highway or great road before mentioned, leading from Waltham towards London, almost in a straight line, di- rectly south, about a quarter of a mile east from the Church.
The parish was formerly divided into seven Lordships: viz. the Parsonage, Tottenham, Pembroke, Bruses, Dawbeneys, Mockings, and Dovecotes, or Dou'cotes. The Parsonage ^ lieth altogether between the Moselle and Edmonton. It had many tenants of consequence here and there dispersed, and many of them of no mean quality; at a court held there in former times, four noblemen, four knights, and sev^al gentlemen and esquires have been called. The others belonged to Lord Colerane, and being in the possession of one lord, there was only one court held for all.
The lordship of Dovecotes, or Duckets, as it is commonly called, adjoins to Homsey, and formerly belonged to the knights
(S3) The bridge here xef^rred to is under the hfgh road, in firont of the Barn Hooiek (34) This bouse, with about 12 acres of ground, was the residence of the late Wil-
Honiby, Esq.
16 THE HERMITAGE^ ETC.
of St. John of Jerusalem, in London. There was another lord- ship in Tottenham Street, a limit of the Lower Ward : but the land having been long since alienated from the manor hoose^ the manor is now of no consequence. This manor house stands on the east side of the hi^ h road, and is now in the occupation of Mrs. Stonard.
THE HERMITAGE, CHAPEL OF ST. ANNE, AND CHAPEL OF
ST. ELOY.
The Hermitage and Chapel of St. Anne was a building in for- mer days which stood on the common on the east side of the high road, at a short distance southward from the Cross, about midway between it and Black-up bridge; and it was standing there within the memory of some persons who lived in Bedwell's time : ^ it was a little square building for the most part of brick, a neat dwelling for a small family, with a little slip of ground an- nexed to it, running along by the side of the highway southward, from the building to the Seven Sisters ; but afterwards by licence from the lord of the manor* it was enclosed and converted into an orchard. It was a cell dependant on the monastery of the Holy Trinity in London : and in the year 1638 it was the property of Ferdinando Pulford and Anne his mother, as appears by title deeds in the possession of Charles Snell Chauncey, Esq. relating to an estate in Edmonton.^^ The site of the hermit-age is now occupied by the Bull public house ; and on the slip of ground leading thence to the Seven Sisters there is a row of neat houses, called " Grove Place.''
The Offertory, or chapel of St. Eloy, was in Bedwell's time a poor house, situated on the west side of the high road, a little to the west from the bridge where the middle ward ends, which was formerly across the road opposite the Stone Mason's Yard. The house in which the late Mr. Harding, the stone mason, lived, has been considered to occupy the site of this chapel, and the
(25) Bedwell was Vicar of TotteDbam from the year 1607 to 1632.
(26) Lyson's Environs, vol. iii, note p. 540.
THE HBRMtTAGB, ETC. 17
slip of ground on the north of it, now partly built upon^ was farm* eriy attached to the chapel.
St. Eloy, or Eligius, was bom at Cadaillae, near Limoges^ in France, abont 588, and apprenticed to a goldsmith ; till, on his having executed a beautiful piece of work for Clothaire II. the king called him to court, and consulted him about aflairs of state. He was ordained Bishop of Noyon in 640, at the age of fifty-two years, and held that see near twenty years, stiU working at his original trade and making some of the finest shrines in the king's dominions : he died at seventy, December 1, 659, which day was observed as the anniversary of that saint. His chapel here was near a well called by his name — ** St. Ley's Well,'* which in Bed- well's time was nothing but a deep pit near the highway, almost midway between the Cross and his cell, always full of water, but never running over ; the water of which was said to exceed all other near it.^^ This well was cleaned out within the memory of some living in Bedwell's time (1607), and at the bottom of it there was a great stone, which had certain letters or characters on it; but being, through the carelessness of the workmen, broken and de* faced, and no person being near who regarded it, it was not known what the characters meant.
St. Loy ! heze it this foantain—emblem pure
Of chaste miosteiitatioiis charity — Never in ▼ain intreated, erer sure ;
Tet o*er the marge tby waters fair and free Ascend not, OTerflowiof^ vanntingl/,
But in thy bounty bamble as nnfatling. In grief, disease, and sickness, visit thee.
But part in joy, dianged by thy holy healing To nnnhood, strength, and life, thy far renown revealing.
There is thy qf^rtaryy and thy shrine. Simple, inartificial ; nor of fiime.
Nor any honour, save that it is thine. And all its glory centres in thy name f^
This well is now to be seen in a field, formerly called '^ South- field at Si. Lays*^^ on the western side of the high road, belong-
(27) The properties of the water are similar to the water of Chettenham springs.
(28) See Tuumkam; a poem by J. A. flerand, p. 30.
(29) See the Survey of 1619.
C
18 ANCIBNT WELLS.
ing to Henry Piper Sperlings Esq.^ on lease to the late Mr. Charles Saunders ; — surrounded by willows^ close to the hedge row which divides the above field firom Mr. Forster's brick field, and is about 500 feet from the highway : it is bricked up on all sides^ square, and about 4 feet deep. This field, at the time of the survey in 1619, was in the possessioh of Arthur Robinson. St. Eloy, or St. Loy, was the greatest oath by which men swore in Chaucer's Canter- bury Tales 1, 120, and in the Friar's Tales 1, 7146, the carter en- couragiz^ his horses to draw his cart out of a slough, says —
** I pray God save thy body and St Eloy*"
Adjoining to the ancient chapel, of St. Mary Magdalen at Kingston-upon-Thames, there were two small chapels dedicated to St. Anne and St. Loye.^o
Whether this was Bishop Eligius, or some saint esteemed for his skill in farriery and care of horses, (for the MSS. of Chaucer always read Loy^ and not Elojfy) it is probable that he was ven- erated at Tottenham for the same reasons, and that offerings were made at his well from an idea of its miraculous properties. In a fancy drawing by the late Mrs. Townsend, this well is repre- sented with a hermit standing by it, receiving an offering from a lady; the cell is placed in the back ground. 3i
ANCIENT WELLS.
There is a spring which issues from the side of a small hillock on the south side of the Moselle^ nearly opposite the Vicarage, leading thence to the Church, called Bishop*s Well. This spring was formerly considered famous for many strange and woo- derful cures performed on the diseased by the use of this water. It has been for some years neglected, but of late the owner of the field in which this well is, had it cleansed, and planted some trees round it, and put up posts and rails to prevent the cattle treading down the sides of it. It is said that the water of this well never freezes. In former times this well was in great repute from the
(dO) Ly ton's Environs, vol. i, p. 254. (31) This drawing was exhibited at the Royal Academy, in 1770—71.
THE RIFBB tKA. 19
jmrity of its water. The ladies in the yicinity of it were ac- customed to send their servants in the morning and evening for water for their tea, from which circamstanoe it was for many years known by the name of ^^My Ladyj^s HoleJ*^ The water of this well is not cmly esteemed for its medicinal qualities, bat par- ticularly for curing disorders of the eye.
There were formerly many other springs about the village, es» pecially one which issued out of the hill on which the Church stands ; and another in Spottons Wood otherwise SpoUonsOrove,^ on the north side of Lordship Lane, which in the fifteenth century was of considerable notoriety; but none of which have in fcmner times been so much frequented and held in such repute as Bishop's WeU.
Tottenham Wood in the fifteenth century was celebrated for its well, which was called "Dunsian'M fVell/'^ at this time there was an inclosure called ^^ Dunstan*M Well Field y* but this well like the others is now almost forgotton.
THE RIVER LEA.
This river rises in Bedfordshire, and is one of the boundaries of the parish of Tottenham, extending from north to south about two miles and a quarter ; which river also separates the county of Middlesex from the county of Essex. This river, sometimes called Lee, Ley, Leigh, or Lea, passing from Hertford and Ware between the counties of Middlesex and Essex, falls into the Thames by Limehouse, or Leymouth. The corporation of the city of London claim a right to part of the navigation of this river ; which right appears founded on a record in the rolls of parliament, 2nd Henry V. — '^That in all Commissions, touch- ing the water of Lea, the Mayor of London shall be one.'' It ap- pears also in the 22nd Edward IV. that a verdict was given against the Abbot of Waltham for obstructions in the river called '' the water of Ley," preventing com, malt, and other commodi- ties reaching London by the navigation of that river. To render
(32) See the Earl of Donei's Survey, 1619,) (33) Ibid.
20 THE RIVER LEA.
the Davigation more perfect^ an act for a new cut was obtained in the year 157 1^ in the 13th of Queen Elizabeth. It is however doubtful^ whether any immediate means were employed to ren- der the above act beneficial.
In the year 1577^ the city entered into consideration^ whether the cut might not be beneficially extended to Moregate ; after se- veral meetings and enquiries, this plan and design became abor- tive. In the year 1580, the river was rendered navigable in the north, as far as Ware, by cleansing and removing impediments. Fresh and clandestine obstacles to the further improvement of the navigation were made by the farmers and carriers inhabiting the parishes adjoining the sides of the river ; conceiving their interest would be materially injured by the introduction of water carriage. In consequence of this opposition, a commission of sewers was ap- pointed September 1, 1581, and the necessary enquiries made to discover and punish the authors of these illegal practices : resort was then made by those interested in the land carriage by pe- titions and remonstrances, when a second commission of sewers was issued, July 17, 1589. The cut was probably by this period finished after considerable opposition and litigation ; it was at last determined by the Star Chamber, and ordered — " that the said river should be and continue free for barges and boats, al- lowing a proper towing path on the banks and sides of the river."34
The trustees of the river Lea navigation are exempt from all parish taxes, but a house built on its banks is liable ; it was so determined by the Court of King's Bench, 1819.35
Fair is the scene beside the banks of Lea: —
And note ye, the broad barge malces tardy way Thro' the bright waves, that, in their majesty,
Break into dimples, and laugh in the day : Vocal the deck with mirth and roundelay,
Busy all hands, and manifold the freight — High is thy source, and far thy waters stray,
Mingling with streams dividing shires— till late In the fiiir Thames, O Lea, thou'rt lost, like time in fatc!^
(34) Stowe's Survey of London, fol.ed. vol. i, p. 52. (a*)) Gregg and Armstrong— Sec Bum's Justice, edition 1825, p. 61.
(36) Heraud's poem " Tottenham."
THE RIVKR LBA. 21
The acts of parliament which relate to the river Lea are--the 13 Elizabeth, c. 18(1571); 12 Geo. II. c. 32 (1734) ; 7 Geo. III. c. 51 (1761), sec. 5 and 6; 15 Geo. III. c. 58 (1774) ; 45 Geo. III. c. 69 (1805) ; and 12 Geo. IV. (1830).
The statute of 13 Elizabeth, c. 18 (1570), appears to be the act upon which the river Lea was first projected : and, in the year 1829, a case was laid before coonsel, of which the following is the sab- stance and answer thereto.
As to the dispute between the freeholders, copyholders, and tenants, of Tottenham and Edmonton marshes, in Middlesex, and Chingford, in Essex. The management of the river Lea naviga- tion, for barges and other small craft, is conducted by more *han one hundred gentlemen of respectability, resident in Middlesex, Hertfordshire, and Essex, pursuant to the provisions in several Acts of Parliament, authorising their election, and given them power to act.
In 1570, and previously, the water extended one mile in width and firom the river Thames in length about twenty miles to and beyond Ware in Hertfordshire, through Tottenham, Edmonton, and Chingford marshes, and other property.
In the same year an embankment was made near the Thames, which then closed in the tide, and prevented it from overflowing to the former width, confining the water to what was then, and in several Acts of Parliament since, called the new cut of the river Lea, which new cut received the water collected by rains from the high lands adjacent to the river, on each side, and the super- abundant water flowed from thence into the Thames, it is sup- posed freely and without overflowing, and the navigation of this new cut, together with force of the water, kept this new cut cleansed frt>m gravelly and other obstructions, until the year 1766.
In the year 1570, the stittute authorising improvement for the navigation passed, the river then being more the work of nature than of art, running in a zig-zag inconvenient current.
To apply a further, but still a partial, remedy for the inconve- nience of the river, another statute was passed in the year 1766, authorising and empowering what were then, and are now, called new cuts, being the new cuts extending from several parts
22 THE RIVER LEA.
of the ancient new cut to other parts of that cut^ and which hav- ing been cut or excavated in direct lines^ avoid sometimes, the inconvenient distance of navigating in a zig-zag direction, so that now some parts of the ancient new cut adjoining to some new cats form the navigable river. From the river gathering the superfluoos waters from the high lands, right and left of the river Lea, the proprietors of the navigation made every practicable arrangement for conveying off the water to prevent inundation, as far as seemed to them proper; and among other fisusilities they placed an aqueduct or tunnel beneath one of the new cuts, for the apparent but insufficient purpose of carrying the water which thereafter might and now does collect near an aqueduct at the point of a di- vision in one of the new cuts which parts Tottenham from EkL- monton marsh, in Middlesex, that water might be and is conveyed beneath the new cut there into the ancient new cut, or so much water as can get through that aqueduct ; and had the proprietors made several aqueducts, at proper distances and of sufficient di- mensions, the water would flow through and into and thereby keep in rainy seasons and at all times the ancient new cut, free from islands and other obstructions to the rapid current of water, such aa fallen trees, gravel, rushes, &c, which now exist.
The consequence of the want of a rapid current of water in the an* cient new cut, has been that, when heavy rain falls, the water cannot flow so quick, as was usual before the new cuts were made, there- fore the rain water from the rivulets and other streams cannot all pass the aqueduct, but spreads over the land in Edmonton and Tot- tenham marshes, and other adjacent property, and frequently, in the hay season, carries away or damages the hay, and grass mown to make hay, and does other material injury.
The proprietors keep the navigable stream, &c. in repair, and receive the tolls arising therefrom, and have been called on to en- large the aqueduct, and to cleanse the ancient new cut where ob- structions arise, and generally to provide against inundation, &c. : their answer is, that they are not liable, they will do nothing more than what they are compelled to do, and when they see they are liable they will comply ; and they state, they compute the expense of such compliance at £20,000.
THC RIVER LEA. 23
All parties agree that the ancient new cat in those parts which are not now navigated is choaked up by ulands, willow trees, gravel, rushes, &c.^ mainly to be attributed to disuse and to the water being less rapid than is sufficient to keep the ancient cut cleansed of islands, gravel. Sec, some water which would other* wise flow there, being taken away to supply the new cuts, and other water being kept away, overflowing Tottenham and Edmon- ton marshes, and other property, because there are not sufficient aqueducts to convey the water from thence beneath the new cut there, into the ancient new cut.
At Chingford Mill, the miller kept up the water for the sup- ply of water to his mill by raising an embankment, called a weir, about 12ft. high, in the ancient new cut, which, too^ impedes the impetuosity of the water in that part of the current, and is continually causing it to overflow the adjacent land.
lliere are, perhaps, other causes of complaint, but these are the diief, and having been caused by the River Lea Company, should be removed by them, which would work a remedy for the evils complained of.
The parishioners of Tottenham, presented in Hilary Term, (1829) the aqueduct and accumulation of gravel or alluvion mat- ter in the cut, as two distinct nuisances.
The question was, whether the 14 sec. of the 7 Geo. 3,c. 51, is available, and if so on the landlords and tenants, to seek that and no other remedy for damages by inundation, from loss of grass mown to make hay in the hay season, and for expense incurred by removal of cattle during inundation in hay season from the in* mandated land ? And whether and how a mandamus could be applied for to compel the River Lea Company to make suffi- cient tunnels, pursuant to the said act, sec. 93. Or whether a statute of sewers should issue, and at whose expense, under the provisions of the 13 Elizabeth, c. 18, sec. 12, and 12 Geo. II. c. 32, sec. 18 and 20, on a case laid before counsel.
Hie answer was — Neither of the acts of parliament appear to contain any clmwes expressly applying to such a state of things as IB aZN>ve stated ; it appears the injury is not sustained by this or that individual^ the tenant of a piece of land here and there, but
24 THE RIVER LEA.
by the occupiers of the lands generally in all the marshes of Tot- tenham, Edmonton^ and Chingford ; and it is occasioned partly by the want of tunnels or culverts of equal sizes under a dam of the new cuts for the passage of the water beneath them^ from one side to the other, and partly by the old cut in those parts of it which are not now used for purposes of navigation, having, through the neglect to cleanse it, the want of such tunnels for the sufficient quick passage of the water into it, and the diversion of a large portion of the water from it, into and through the new cut, become so choaked up with islands, sand, rushes, &c. as to be wholly inadequate for the proper flowing of the water in rainy weather, and in consequence whereof, the marshes are inundated at times, when, with proper precautions, there need not be any such floods.
If this be the case, the trustees of the navigation are by means of the embankments of their new cuts with the want of tunnels or tunnels of inadequate dimensions, their diversion of the water from the parts in question of the old cuts into the new ones, and their neglect to cleanse the old cuts, guilty of bl great and standing public nuisance to all the occupiers of lands in the several marshes. And the proper remedy for this, if the trustees were a corporation or were private individuals, proprietors of the navigation, would be by indictments for containing such and such nuisances, setting forth of course the facts of commission and omission constituting the nuisance in the particular spots indicted; and though the statute of the 45 Geo. 3, c. 69, does not seem to have contem- plated the possibility of an indictment against the trustees, the words in that statute, ^'may sue and be sued,** are extensive enough to include an indictment, which mode of proceeding therefore may be taken against the treasurer or clerk. The grievance is not a mere neglect to cleanse the river Lea, which, under the act of Elizabeth, it might be said is left to the persons originally com- pellable by law or by the statute of sewers, nor is a mere omission to do something which the trustees were authorized but not re- quired to do, but it is for continuing something which was origi- nally constructed improperly, for instance, embankments without tunnels of adequate sizes and in proper numbers, and for neglecting
THE RIVSR LEk. 25
to cleanse^ not the riyer Lea generally^ bot the old cat, which they have rendered necessary ahoold be deanaed from time to time, both by having through the embankmenta of their new cats, and the want of proper tunnela, preyented in flood times the water from flowing into it as rapidly as it used to do ; and farther, les- sens the stream within it by diverting a large portion of the water oat of it into the new cuts : this view of the case will get rid of questions relative to the limitation of actions, &c. to be commenced within six calendar months next after the fieu^t committed. It does not seem that it woald afford an answer to the indictment to say, that soi^)osing what was agreed were done, still there woald be inondations at times, and it might still be advis- able to have a commission of sewers for cleansing the river Lea generally." T. Andrews, Temple, lOf A June, 1829.
River Lea Navigation.
Extract from 19 Geo. III. c. 58, intituled '' An Act for Pre- serving the Navigation of the River Lea, in the counties of Hertford, Essex, and Middlesex.
The Tottenham Mill Stream.
^ And whereas, a certain navigable stream or cat, belonging to James Townsend, Esq., called Tottenham Mill stream, hath been used as part of the said navigation, for the passage of boats, barges, lighters, and oth^ vessels, for which the said trustees have paid to the said James Townsend the annual sum of £10. lOf., and the said James Townsend is consenting that the said stream or cut should be used as part of the said navigation for ever, subject to the same annual rent ; but the same being no part of the navigation described in the said act,^^ the use of the said stream cannot be secured to the public unless some further powers are granted for that purpose ; be it therefore enacted, that the said stream or cut, together with a proper towing path on the
(37) See also an Act 7 Geo. 3, for improviog the navigation of the river Lea, re- oM m the 19 Geo. 3. 12 Geo. 2, intitnled "An Act for a rofficient pretenrfng and iaptoTiiig the naTigation of the river Lea, ac."
26 THE RIVER LEA.
west side thereof^ shall for ever hereafter be used as part of the said navigation, and that the owners of all boats, barges, lighters, and other vessels shall have liberty to navigate along the said stream or cut, and to make use of the said towing path in like manner as if the said stream or cat had been part of the naviga- tion described in the said act ; and the said tmstees, or any seven or more of them, shall, and have hereby full power and authority from time to time, to scour, cleanse, deepen, and do such other works in the said stream or cut, and repair the said towing path as they think fit, for the purposes of the said navigation, without any hindrance, molestation, or interruption from the said James Townsend, or any person or persons who may hereafter be en- titled to the said stream or cut, and the towing path, so that no damage be done thereby to the Tottenaam Mills, by preventing the water flowing to the same as it now doth. 19 Geo. III. c. 58.
'^ Provided always, that nothing herein contained shall author- ize the said trustees, or any of them, or any other person or per- sons acting under their authority, to contract the said stream, or cut jor prevent the occupier of Tottenham Mills from penning a head of water to the said mills, or to obstruct, hinder, or prevent the navigating or passing of boats, barges, lighters, and other vessels to and from the said mills.
** Provided also, that the occupier or occupiers of the said mills, or any other person or persons, shall not, upon any account or pretence, cause the water to be let or drawn out of the said stream or cut so as to reduce the same below the height of 2fC. on the present sill of the wd^te gate of the said mills, to be as- certained by a stone put down and marked for that purpose. And the said trustees are hereby required at all times to keep the gat^s of the lock near the said stream or cut of an equal height with the banks of the said mill stream at the mill head for keep- ing a full head of water to the said mills ; and the said trustees shall at all times repair, and keep in good repair, the bridge built across the new cut, near the said mill stream.
** And be it further enacted, that the said trustees, or any seven or more of them, shall, and they are hereby authorized and re- quired, out of any money arising by virtue of the said recited
THE RIVER LBA. 27
acts^sd and this act to pay^ or cause to be paid, to the said James Townsend and the owner of the said stream or cut and towing path for the time being, the annual rent of £10. lOt. of lawful money of Great Britain, firee and clear of and from all deductions whatever, on the 25ih day of March in every year ; the first pay- ment to be made on the 25ih day of March, 1780 : and in case the said yearly rent shall not be paid for the space of twenty -one days next after the day herein befqre appointed for the payment thereof, that then the said James Townsend and the owner for the time being of the said stream or cut, and towing path, shall have such and the same remedies for recovering the same yearly rent, and all costs and expenses attending the recovery thereof, as are in the said recited act of the 7th year of the reign of his present Majesty provided for the payment of any rents and an- nuities granted and made payable by virtue thereof/' Ibid.
The trustees of the River Lea Navigation are rated to the poor rate of this parish for ** the Tottenham Mill Stream and the iowing path on the west ride thereof, used as part of the navi- gaticn of the river Lea,** at the aforesaid sum of £10. lOf.
Collections from books, manuscripts, public records, acts of parliament, and original letters, in iUustration of the history of the river Lea.39
1. Norden's account of the river Lea, from his MS. in the Harleian Library, No. 570.
2. The river Lea, from Ix>mbarde's Topog. Diet. p. 194.
3. The river Lea, from Dugd. Hist, of Embanking, pp. 74, 75.
4. Of the river Lea, and the streams which join its course, firom Chauncey Hist. Hertfordshire, p. 3-5.
5. Lyson's Account of the origin of the Bridge over this river, at Stratford, Bow, Bnvir. of London, vol. iii. p. 489.
6. Scriptum W. Eliensis Episcopi et domini Regis Cancellarii de avertemda Aqua de la Lui, from the Reg. of Waltham
(38) The 12 Geo. 2, for asoertaining and improTing the naTigation of the riTerLea, and the 7 Geo. 3» for impTOTiog the navigation of the river Lea. (59) Bf Sir Henry EUis, Knt K.H., F.R.3., F.S.A., kc.
28 THB RIVER hEA.
Abbey. MS. Harl.391^ fol. 103. This instrument was granted in or about the year 1 190.
7. Rot. Pat. 8 Edw. I. m 13. De Wallas et fossatis Maris- maram de Walthamme reparandis. Dat. 10 Junii.
8. Placitum coram Domino Rege apud Westm. de Term. PascboB anno 6 Edw. ii. It relates to the construction and re- pair of the bridges over the Lea at Stratford at Bow^ after the passage of the river at Oldford was abandoned.
9. Petition from the Mayor and Commonality of London^ 2 Hen. y. to the ELing in Parliament^ with the answer for the con- servation of the Lea. Rot. Pari. iv. 36.
10. Petition to Parliament for^ and answer granting, a Com- mission of Conservancy^ A. D. 1425, 3 Hen. VI
11. Stat. 3 Hen. VI. chap. 5, empowering the Chancellor of England to grant such Commissions as may be needful to in- different persons dwelling about the Lea, to enquire into and amend defaults in the said water.
12. Petition to the King in Parliament, and answer upon, de- faults. A. D. 1427, 1 Hen. VI. Rot. Pari. vol. iv. p. 332.
13. Stat. 9. Hen. VI. chap. 9, directing a Commission for taking away the shelves in the river Lea, and the gathering a toll of 4ei{. for every ship and boat freighted, and passing in the said river to defray the expense of removing the said shelves.
14. Rot. Pat. 18 Hen. vi, in 5 dors. De Walliis fossatis et KidoUis in aqua de Leye, 12th July.
15. Boundys bytween the Lordshippes of Waltham and Ches- hunt. Temp. H. vi. [Registr. Ab. Waltham, MS. Harl. 391, fol. 74, b. .]
16. Rot. Pat. 16 Edw. iv. p. 2, in IS dors de Seweris.
17. Copy of a Verdict given in Edward the Fourth's Tyme, touching the stopping of the passage of the Ryver of Lea, 1482 ; MS. Lansdowne, vol. I, ant. 42.
18. Pro Ponte apud Temple Myll in Paivitua de Hackenay^ &c. e Reg. Hosp. S. Ista. Icrus. MS. Cott. Navo. E. vi, fol. 64«
19. Stat, xiii Eliz. chap. 18: An Act for bringing the river Lea to the north side of London.
20. Letter from Thomas Fanshawe to Lord Burghley, that he
TBB RlVBIl LBA. 99
had caofled the impedimentB of the river Lea to be amended^ and that the city of London have thought of a new cut to bring the river Lea to Moorgate. Warwicke's land^ 11th Oct. 1597. MS. Lanad. 25, art. 12.
21. The same, to Lord Borghley, upon the trial of the river in respect to lading from Ware to Warwicke Land, Slst Oct. 1577. MS. Lanfid. art. 11.
22. Mr. Faashawe's representation to Lord Burghley of his proceedings in rectifying abases on the Lea. Ware Park, 1 1th S^. 1581. MS. Lansd. 32, art. 33.
23. An account of unwarrantable breaches recently made out of the river Lea, 1581. Ibid. art. 34.
24. Depositions concerning the burning of Waltham Lock, near Cheshunt ; taken Aug. 21, 1581. Ibid. art. 35.
25. Examination respecting misdemeanors in the river at En- field, 19, 21, Aug. 1581. Ibid. art. 37.
26. Lord Hunsden, Mr. Fanshawe, and Mr. Basshe, to Lord Burghley, upon the disorders, and upon upon a new practice de- vised to drive stakes into the river. Stanstead, 24th Sep. 1581. Ibid. art. 38.
27. Recorder Fleetwood to Lord Burghley upon his and others being at Tottenham to examine into abuses on the river fica, 1581. Ibid. art. 39.
28 . The Report of the Commissioners of Sewers after examin- ing into the disorders committed on the Lea. Ibid, art* 41.
29. A Letter to Lord Burghley, signed by Mr. Recorder Fleetwood aud the other Commissioners for the River Lea, Oct. 3, 1581. Ibid, art. 42.
30. An Answer to the Complaints of the Inhabitants of En- fielde, against taking grain to London from Ware by the river Lea, Oct. 1583, MS. Lansd. 38, art. 32.
31. A Petition to Lord Burghley, of the Inhabitants of Ware, for a Commission to hinder Damages done to river Lea, 1583. Ibid, art. 34.
32. Homes Hudde upon the Practices of Persons near En- field, to raise the price of Grain, also of the Commodities of the river Lea. Ibid. art. 35.
30 THB RIVER LEA.
33. A note of the defects in the water of Lea^ from Waltham Holy Cross to the mills beneath Stratford at Bow^ 1583. Ibid. art. 36. «
34. Inconveniences arising from victuaUers coming down the river Lea^ and their adherents. MS. Lansd. 41^ art. 48.
35. A Remembrance for the Barge Masters of the river Lea, 1587. MS. Lansd. 53, art. 94.
36. Bridges over the river Lea mentioned in Norden's MS. account of Middlesex. MS. Harl. 570.
37. Order of the Star Chamber relating to the Right of Na- vigation on the river Lea. June 20th, 1594. MS. Lansd. 76^ art. 55»
38. Act for ascertaining, preserving, and improving the Navi- gation of the River Lea from Hertford to Ware, and for pre- serving and improving the said river from the said town of Ware to the New Cut or river made by the Mayor, &c. of London, and for enabling the Governor and Companies of the New River to supply London and Westminster, and the liberties and suburbs thereof, with good and wholesome Water. 12 Geo. II. chap. 32.
39. Act 7 Geo. III. chap. 51, for improving the Navigation of the river Lea from Hertford to the Thames, and for extending the Navigation to the flood gate belonging to the flour mill, in the said town of Hertford.
40. Order of the trustees of the river Lea, A. D. 1766, for Mr. Smeaton to survey the river.
41. The report of John Smeaton, Engineer, upon the river, making and completing the Navigation of the Lea from the Thames to the town of Hertford.
42. Estimate of Expenses attending upon the proposed cuts and canals necessary for the improved navigafion of the river.
43. Mr. Smeaton's Report concerning the situation of the mills and Bleach Field at Waltham Abbey, in respect of the water.
44. Report on Waltham Abbey Powder Mills, respecting na- vigation on the river Lea, 1771.
45. Mr. Smeaton's Report upon the state of the river Lea Navigation, so £eu: as the Mills abreast of the Waltham Abbey Canal, ate affected thereby. 1779.
THE NSW RIVER. 31
46. Mr. Smeaton's Report respecting the alterations made at SewardBtone^ so far as they concern the quantity of water taken from the river Lea, as also t^e loss sustained by Sewardstone Mill by an alteration made at Enfield Lock, in the year 1781 : made Nov. 12, 1782.
47. Mr. Smeaton's Report respecting the loss of grinding sus- tained at Tottenham Mills, by the leakage of the lock gates, from the year 1778, till April, 1781 : made Nov. 12, 1782.
48. Act of 19 Geo. 3, c. 58, for preserving the Navigation of the river Lea, in the counties of Hertford, Essex, and Middlesex.
49. Act of 45 Geo. 3, c. 69, for the better preserving and fur- ther improvement of the Navigation of the river Lea, in the counties of Hertford, Essex, and Middlesex^ (27th June, 1805).
THE NEW RIVER.
Bedwell shj%^ " The Aetr River y brought with aff ill wiU from '' Ware to London, runneth, with many crookes and windings,
through the west end of the parish. Who was the first author
of this project, I cannot tell, whether Mr. Bultner or any other ; " but sure I am, that I have seen it mentioned in writings among
many of rare and profitable inuentions of Mr. Thomas Bedwell, *' written with his own hand about fifty years agone (1581);
what are become of those his papers, I know not ; great pity it
is, they should be lost.
Whose project it was first, it much skilleth not ; he who first ^' chalked out the way, we know was a minister of London, our
English Tycho, a man so ingenious, industrious, and learned,
that I suppose there were few things vndertaken by him if able, " which hee would not have effected and done : mistake me not, *' for although I speake this for his commendation, yet I meane " it not to the derogation of others ; for it seameth, that before
(40) Bed well*! Brief Detcription of the Town of Tottenham, at 1631, chap. 8.
€g tt €€ €€ tt tt tt
tt
I tt
tt
32 THE NEW RIVER.
the worke was altogether finished^ he was put by, and others
employed to make an end of it.''
This river, which pursues its meandering course through the western boundaries of the parish^ and is a most important artificial canal or stream of water passing through parts of the counties of Hertford and Middlesex, was contrived and executed principally by an individual. Sir Hugh Myddelton,4i in order to supply the British Metropolis and its environs with fresh water. In the reign of James I. Hugh Myddelton^ citizen and goldsmith, pro- jected the plan of bringing water out of Hertfordshire in a channel to London. Meeting with no co-operation, he at length, in the year 1608, commenced the undertaking at his own expense; and, after exhausting all his resources, and being refused aid from the corporation of London, he was enabled by the assistance of the King to bring it to completion. On September 29, 1613, the water was let into the New River Head' at Islington ; but the pro- jector was ruined by the expense, and it was long before the scheme was rendered useful and beneficial to the public. The New River is formed by the collected waters of several springs, which rise at Chadwell, near Ware, Hertfordshire, about twenty miles north-west from London : — these springs are collected into a large open basin of considerable dex)th, near which a stone is placed, with inscriptions implying, that the stream was opened in 1608, and that from the Chadwell spring the river flows forty miles. The original supply of water having been found inadequate to the consumption, the mill stream of the river Lea, which runs near it, was resorted to; and after various disputes and litigations between its proprietors and those of the New River, the mill
(41) He was the sixtti son of Richard Myddelton, Esq., Gtovernor of Denbigh Castle, in the reign of Edward VI, and settled in London a^ a goldsmith ; but in eailjr life he bad engaged in mining speculations in his own country, and worked a copper mine in Cardiganshire, which brought him a considerable income. During the reigns of Elizabeth and James, I, the citizens of London obtained a power of bringing a new supply of water to the city from certain springs and streams in Middlesex and Hert- fordshire ; who, not succeeding in the undertaking, made over to Mydddton and his heirs all the powers and rights conferred by Act of Parliament He was knighted in
1613: in 1622, be was created a baronet, and died in 1631 BU>g* Brit. Dr* Rett'
New Bncyc, vol. xsiii, part. 2.
THE NEW RIVER. 33
stream has at length become the property of the hitter company, who have now an unrestricted use of the water ; so that the river Lea may be considered as one of the sources. To preserve a pro- per levels the New River takes such a winding, that the length of the channel is nearly thirty-nine miles — ^passing through Ware, Amwell, Hoddesdon, and Cheshunt, it enters Middlesex near Ball's Cross ; bending towards Enfield Chase, it returns to the town of Enfield ; and at Bush Hill was formerly carried across a valley in a wooden aqueduct or open trough, 660 feet in length, supported by arches ; ^^ but by the improvements in canal-making a better mode has been adopted to efiect the purpose by means of a mound of earth, over which the river passes in a new channel, which was completed in the year 1785. Hence the river pro- ceeds with devious bends to Homsey, between which village and Highbury it was formerly conveyed in another wooden aqueduct, now superseded like the other by a bank of clay ; still winding, it reaches Stoke Newington, and passes on to th^ east side of Is- lington, where it has a subterraneous channel for 200 yards be- neath the street : just before this part there is a building, whence several mains or pipes are sent to supply the eastern side of Lon- don. After passing under the road, the New River emerges and coasts the southern side of Islington, till it reaches its termina- tion at the grand reservoir, called the New River Head. The width of the river near Islington is fourteen feet and half, the average depth is four feet and half, but the depth increases on ascending towards its source. The number of bridges which cross the river in its whole course, is about 200 : in various places there are sluices to let off the waste water ; which with other works excited admiration in the earlier stage of this branch of mechanics, bat they are now overlooked in the wonders of canal navigation.
Truly admirable are the contrivances for distributing the water through the various parts of London. From a circular basin now thrice its original size, which first receives it, the water is con-
(43) Thisaqaedact, which was Uned with lead and supported by strong timbers aad )>rick piers, was called the Boarded River. See Gents. Mag., Sep. and Oct. 1784.
34 THE NEW RIVER.
Teyed by sluices into several large brick cisterns ; whence it passes through large iron pipes to the several districts, and is conveyed into the houses by leaden pipes At the New River Head there is a building, containing two steam engines and a water en- gine, for forcing the water to a higher reservoir near Pentonville, and to another near Tottenham Court Road, for distribution to the western parts of the town. Near the former reservoir, in a field, a conspicuous object appears, the use of which is little known : it is an iron pipe twelve feet high; and four feet eight inches in circumference, with a wooden tub placed on its top ; it acts in the double capacity of an air and waste water pipe, and is useful in preventing the bursting of the pipe, which was formerly very fre- quent from the force of the water, or from compressed air. A new reservoir, communicating with that at Pentonville, has been recently constructed by the side of Tottenham Court Road, for the supply of Mary-le-bone and its vicinity : the mains from which are iron pipes of four feet eight inches in circumference.
The property of this great concern was originally divided into seventy-two shares, of which thirty-six were vested in Sir Hugh Myddelton, who was obliged to part with them to various per- sons : these are termed adventurers* shares. The other thirty- six were vested in the crown for the money advanced by King James towards the undertaking ; these were alienated by Charles I, and are called king's shares : but as*the crown had no conceni in the management, so the holders of these shares are "exoladed from the direction. The original value of the shares was £100. each ; 43 but so discouraging were the first prospects, that they Ml to a very low price : at present they are worth a hundred times their first value: — a rise in property scarcely to be parallelled, and demonstrative of the increase of buildings in the capital.
The management of the company's affitirs is vested by ehxrttac in twenty-nine holders of adventurer's shares, who form a board. The officers are — a governor, deputy governor, a treasurer, and a clerk. Few public companies surpass this in property and extent
(43) A ilhare, originally £100., sold gome yean since as bigh as £15,000. — Dr. JReei* New Bncye. vol. 23, part 2, Mid.
THE NEW RIVER. 35
of coDcemft. The constant repairs and improvements employ a ▼ast number of men and hozses ; and the whole system of the dis- tribution of the water is so complicated as to require the utmost skill and attention on the part of the surveyor and other officers.
Tlie New River is a considerable ornament to many seats and pleasure grounds in its course^ though it has too much of a canal- like regularity to be truly picturesque.
It is likewise of great utility in affi:>Tding a supply of water for cattle^ and for various other purposes. Many houses and canals in the lower part of the parish are supplied with water fipom this river.
llie Governor and Company of the New River first laid down iron pipes, four inches in the bore, in White Hart Lane, in June, 1829, from the cottages at the south-east comer of Mr. Hol- brook's land (called Crook* s Farm), in the ditch there which di- vides his land from the land of the Dean and Chapter, on lease to Henry Piper Sperling ; at which place there is a head of brick work forming a sort of reservoir, from which the pipes run from north to south in the bank on the east side of Mr. Sperling's land to White Hart Lane ; then across the common and road, and then along the north side of the bank of the ditch on the south- side of the road in White Hart Lane as £Bir as the last of the cottages to the east of the Terrace ; then across the road in an oh* liqae direction into the brick drain under the foot path on the south side of the Vicarage field, at the south-west comer of the said field, next a piece of land called Hollowayy belonging to Wil- liam Robinson, Esq. : the whole extent of the pipes in length is about 1150 feet.
These pipes were laid down in order that the New River Com- pany might supply some of the houses and ponds in Tottenham with water. The Company, at the same time, abandoned the original water course through Mr. Robinson's land, on the north side of White Hart Lane.
In 1822, a tenth part of an undivided 16th share of the King's moiety in this concern was sold by auction, at the Auction Mart, in Bartholomew Lane, London, for £1280. In 1838, an original £100, share was sold for eighteen thousand guineas.
36 THE NEW RIVER.
The lineal descendants of Sir Hugh Myddelton, the pro- jector of this great national work^ was supposed to be extinct^ but of late^ a family have appeared who seem to have made out a very satisfactory descent. Their situation in life is such that some of the family have been soliciting relief from the owners of a pro- perty which owed its existence to the public spirit and determined perseverance of their great ancestor.^^
The water of this river covers 8a. Or. 24p. independently of 2a. 21 p. which are taken up by its banks; thus occupying land in the parish to the extent of 14a. 3r. 5?.^^
The cost of bringing the water of the New River to London exceeded £500,000.46
In 1837, two quaiter shares in the New River were sold by auction, at the Auction Mart, at the rate of £18,900. per share. In ^he beginning of 1839, two whole shares were sold by auction, at the Auction Mart, the one at £17,000., and the other at £17,500. The first mentioned shares were king^s shares , the latter adventurers^ shares : the difference is, that the land tax is redeemed on the one, and not on the other ; and the adventurers* shares qualify for a seat at the board of directors equivalent to £200. or £300. per annum.
The Governor and Company of the New River are assessed to the poor at the rate of £200. per mile ; the course of the river through the parish being two miles and three quarters, or £550. per annum.
The highest land in the parish is that through which the* New River passes, from the little hamlet called the THle Kilns, on the borders of Edmonton parish, in the vicinity of the Southgate road, and also at Clay Hill, southward of the Jolly Butchers. The views from these parts are extensive towards Bedfordshire on the west, Hertfordshire on the north, and Essex on the east; from a field near Clay Hill, the Great London Land Mark ("St. Paul's Cathedral J, is very plainly to be seen when the atmosphere
(44) Lyson's, vo!. 3. p. 167, cd. 1795. (45) There fs a map of the course of this river, taken by Mr. C. Coleman, in 1833, inserted in a book called The Watte Lands Book, belonging to the parish.
(46) Bntick's London, vol. 2, p. 112.
THB M08BLLB RIVER. 37
is clear. Passing up White Hart Lane, the ground rises gradaally, and the coarse of the New River is considered to be about twenty- five or thirty feet above the level of the High Road» The river is about 1975 paces, or a mile and a little short of a furlong, from the main street at the lower end of the parish.
THE MOSELLE RIVER.
The Mose, or Moselle, is a little brook, which has its source at Muswell Hill in the parish of Hornsey ; and passing between Homsey and Tottenham Wood, through the middle of the village, in the shape of the Greek letter Omega, leaves the parsonage and vicarage on the north, runs along the west side of the high road as far as the great stone bridge,^^ where it suddenly makes a right angle ; and running under the bridge ^^ continues on the north side of Scotland Green, and takes its course into a branch of the river Lea.
This river takes its name from Muswell Hill, a village in Mid- dlesex, about five miles and a half north of London, in the parish of Homsey ; it is sometimes called '' PensinaU HUL^* At this place the fraternity of St. John, of Jerusalem in Clerkenwell, formerly had their dairy with a large farm adjacent ; there they built a chapel for the benefit of some nuns, in which they fixed the image of the '' Lady Muswell.** These nuns had the sole management of the dairy, and it is to be observed, that the same well and fium do at this time belong to the parish of Clerkenwell, the Knight of St. John of Jerusalem having their house or hos- pital on the site of what is now called St. John Square.
The water of this well was supposed to efiect a miraculous cure for scrofiilous and cutaneous disorders : for that reason it was
(47) This bridge is under the high road, the east end of which is by the sluice gates at Scotland Green, and was formerly called Lordship bridge. From Lordship Lane to this bridge the water course is enclosed within the premises belonging to H. P. Sperliog, Esq., now in the occupation of Mr. Sanderson.
(48) There were formerly sluices on the east of this bridge, which were re- moved in September, 1833, by order of the Commissioners of the Metropolis Roads.
38 STREAMS nBOSlVKD BY THE RIVER LEA.
nmch resorted to^ and tradition says that a king of Scotland made a pilgrimage hither^ and was perfectly cured. Norden ^9 gives the following account of it : — '^ There was a chapel^ sometime bearing the name of our Lady of Muswell, where now ^ Alderman Roe hath a proper house; the place taketh its name of the well and of the hill ^ Mouse- Well-Hill/ for there is on this hill a spring of fine water^ which is now within the compass of the house. There was sometime an image of the lady of Muswell^ whereunto was a considerable resort in the way of pilgrimage^ growings as is (though as I take it) fabulouslie reported, in regard of a great cure which was performed by the water upon a king t>f Scots, who being strangely diseased, was by some divine intelligence advised to take the water of a well in^ England, called Muswell, which, after much scrutation and inquisition, this well was found, and performed the cure."
Bedwell says *^ The Mose, which from the parsonage lane hath runne for the space of half a mile directly south, as it were re- penting itself of that course, suddenly against the middest of the garden of Mr. Wilcoxe,^* tumeth short, and conveying *^ itself vnder this bridgeo2 walketh leisurly eastward in a straight line to meete the Leigh."
4( it
4i
THE STREAMS RECEIVED BY THE RIVER LEA.
The river Lea receives the following principal streams, &c.^
1 . The Wash Brook at Enfield, south-east of Enfield Wash.
2. Bury Street Stream in the parish of Edmonton, south-east of Edmonton Church.
(40) Spec. Brit. p. 36. (50) Anno. 1593.
(51) These premises for many years were in the occupation of Mr. Grace, after- wards of several other persons, but lately in the occupation of Mr. Fernie, and now of Mr. Sanderson : the freeholder is Henry Piper Sperlin^i Esq.
(52) See note 47 ante. (53) From the report of the committee of magistrates appointed to make enqukiea respecting the public bridges in the county of Middlesei, 1826.
BRlOaiS AND F0KD8. 39
3. Salmon's Brook in the parish of Edmonton^ south-east' of Edmonton Church.
4. Pimm's Brook in the {wrish <^ Edmonton, south-east of Edmonton Church.
5. MosellQ rivulet in the parish of Tottenham, east of Totten- ham Church.
6. Hackney Brook in the parish of Hackney, east of Hackney Wick.
Which several streams pass by and through the following parishes, 8^c.
1 . The Wash Brook has its rise and outlet in the parish of Enfield.
2. Bury Street Stream rises in the parish of Edmonton, and passes to its outlet in the same parish.
3. Salmon's Brook rises in the parish of Enfield, and passes to its outlet in the parish of Tottenham.
4. Pimm's Brook rises in difl^ent branches in the parishes of Finchley and Friom Bamet, and passes to its outlet in the parish of Edmonton.
5. Moselle rivulet rises in Homsey parish, and passes to its ontlet in tiie parish of Tottenham.
6. Hackney Brook rises in the parish of Stoke Newington, and passes to its outlet in the parish of Hackney.
BRroOES AND FORDS. T%e River Lea.
Ik the highway adjoining the river Lea in the parish of Tot- tenham, there are the following principal water courses and Imdges or fords in the highway crossing the same.^
Passing on the south-east side of the parish, from the parish of Edmont(mf east of Edmonton Church, to the parish of Hackney,
(54) S«c note 52 ante.
40 BRIDGES AND FORDS.
east of Stamford Hill^ dividing the counties of Middlesex and Essex, it is crossed by the public roads at the foUowiug places, viz. at Tottenham Mills east bridge, called Hillyer^s Toll Bridge, where a toll is collected; Tottenham Mills centre bridge; and Tottenham Mills west bridge, where a toll is also collected. The maintenance of these bridges over the river Lea is considered to be at the charge of the respective proprietors.
For the acts of parliament relating to this river, see page 21, ante.
For the collections from books, MSS., public records, acts of parliament, original letters in illustration of the history of the river Lea, see page 27, ante.
The Moselle Rivulet,^
In its course through the parish, from the parish of Homsey, south of Homsey Church, to the river Lea, east of Tottenham Church, is crossed by the public roads at the following places, viz. at a culvert, north-east of Tottenham Church, in the road between Ducket's Green and Wood Green, where the section across the stream at flood height is eighteen superficial feet : — a culvert or sewer, north-east of Tottenham Church and Wood Green, near the east end of White Hart Lane, where the section across the stream at flood height is eighteen superficial feet : — a bridge east of Tottenham Church, on the west side of the road between upper Edmonton and Tottenham, near the Church, and opposite Marsh Lane ; the bridge is of brick, with one arch, it is twenty feet wide between the parapets, and the water-way under the bridge is twelve feet wide and six feet high, to the summit of the arch ; the maintenance of this bridge is considered to be at the charge of the parish ; the section across the stream at flood height is thirty superficial feet : — a culvert, south-east of Totten- ham Church, in and near the east end of Lordship Lane, leading into the road between Tottenham and upper E^dmonton, near Tottenham Church, where the section across the streun at flood
(55) See note 52 ante.
ANCIENT BRIDQB8. 41
height is eighteen soperficial feet : — sliiice bxidge or colTert, eoath- east of Tottenham Church, in the main load hetween Tottenham and npper Edmonton, sonth of Lordship Lane; this bridge is of brid:, with one arch, and the water-way under the bridge is ten feet to the summit within the arch; there is a garden-wall on one side, and a parapet on the other ;M the maintenance of this bridge is considered to be at the charge of the C!ommissioners of the Metropc^ Roads north of the Thames.
The Mw Riper,
In its course through this parish, from the parish of Edmonton at Bowes Farm, to the parish of Homsey, north of Hornsey Church, is crossed by the public roads at the following [daces : —
A bridge near Bowes Farm;
Ditto in Lord Lane ;
Ditto in ditto;
Ditto at Clay Hill Farm ;
Ditto at Wood Grreeu ;
Ditto at ditto : The maintenance of these bridges is at the charge of the New River Company.
ANCIENT BRIDGES.
Mr. Bbdwsll says,^^ ''In this parish there are, within the '' compass of a mile, three bridges, which have formerly bene " vaulted or built of stone ; these, although they bee ney ther very ** great no &yre, yet are they for horse and cart and such as are '' not againe between Ware and London."
The first of these, which is called Lordship Bridge, is situated about the middle of the Middle Ward, and not &r from Lord- ship Lane which leads to the church. The Mose, which from the
(56) See page 42, pott. (57) fiedwelFs Brief Hitlory of the Town of Tottenbuii High Cnu, in Middletez,
1631.
42 ANCIENT BRIDGES.
Parsonage Lane {White Hart Lane) nins for the space of half a mile directly soath on the west side of the high^road^ passing un- der the road at the entrance of Lordship Lane, rans through the garden of the premises which, in Mr. Bedwell's time, were in the possession of Mr. Wilcoxey then turns short, and passes under this bridge, and so takes its course eastward in a straight line to the river Lea : the west patapet of this bridge may now be traced in the garden wall of the said premises, which is now in the oc- cupation of Mr. Thomas Sanderson: the east parapet and the sluice gates, which stood about ten feet from it, were taken down about the year 1833 by Mr. James Gasson, who occupies a house and premises on the north side of this parapet, and who arched over about 35 feet of the Moselle and built over it an addition to his house, with the consent of the Lord of the Manor, and the parishioners in vestry assembled.^^
The next is a stone bridge, yet not so wide nor high as the Lordship Bridge ; the water which falls towards this bridge is only rain water, and does not come from any great distance: this bridge is called Black-up Bridge, after the lane which leads from West Green towards Page Green and the Seven Sisters, and comes out into the highway against this bridge.
The third bridge is at no great distance southward, it is called Stone Bridge, which was, in Mr. Bedwell's time, much smaller than Black-up Bridge, and was called Small Stone Bridge, and by some it was called Mark Bridge ; but this bridge has since that period been at different times considerably enlarged, and it is now the most considerable bridge of all the others.
There was at the lower end of the parish another stone bridge, but this is now a mere drain to carry the spare water which comes from the New River along the ditch which is the boundary of the two parishes of Tottenham and Edmonton, and collecting in its course the water which comes from the lands in its neighbour- hood, and passing by the wall of the house now in the occupation of Mr. Snell, formerly called Pullein's Hottse,^^ which is in the
(5S) See Vestry Minute Book, 6. p. 579. (59) See the Earl of Dorset's Survey, 1619.
THE THREE WONDERS. 43
pttiah of Eidmoiiton. This is now only an arched sewer or water coarse which^ passing under the road and the lane called fVag- gum Horse Lctne^ runs directly eastward through the marshes to the river Lea.
Ail these bridges^ with the exception of Stone or Mark Bridge^ are now mere sewers or cukerts. The Stone or Mark Bridge was lately enlarged, at the expense partly of the parish and partly of the Commissioners of the Metropolis Roads north of London. The high road there was considerably widened^ and a foot path was made on the west side of it from Black-up Lane to Hangre Lane^ which is a considerable improvement^ and aflbrds great accommodation to the public.
THE THREE WONDERS.
Bbdwell also mentions 6<> ** three wonders or three strange ac- " eidentSy and all of trees, not so much obseruid by the inhabitants '' as by strangers or out-townsmen." The first of this class is that of a walnut tree, standing in the midst of a tuft of elms (the Seven Sisters J^^ set in the manner of a circle^ beneath the Hermitage, at the end of Page Green, by the Middle Stone Bridge, (now called Black-up Bridge) : this tree stood there for many years, and it was observed yearly to live and bear leaves, and yet to stand and neither to grow greater nor higher." The tradition in his time was, that there was one burnt upon that place for the profession of the Gos- pel; but who and when it was, there is no account upon record.
The next were two elms : ^^ the first of which was a pollard, and stood in the highway, not far from the Horse Pond, by the houses in the midst of the street, then commonly known by the name of the Smith's Forge/ the body of this pollard was great, but not much higher from the highest ground than a tall man ; the boughs were not many nor high: it grew upon the side of a high bank, leaning towards the west : this tree, notwithstanding this^ and
(60) See note 56, page 41, ante. ^61) See page 44, post.
44 THE SEVEN SISTERS.
being also sheltered by anninber of trees macb higher than itself, was blown op and laid npon a house and carried away with it the roof, and a whole bank finr two rods together, the earth of which, says Bedwellj who saw it the next day, could not be less than twenty cart loads. Those who dwelt in die house, were about to cat it np; but some wiser, notwithstanding the purpose for which it was first set there, and. the shelter it was to the house, caused it with ropes to be palled back again and to be settled in the place where it before stood : it was standing there in Bedwell's time, 1631."
'' There was another ehn, which grew behind the cross, between it and a fair-house (Dean Wood House J on the east of them both ; this elm for body was nearly four times greater than the former, and not much higher in any respect; the top boughs were doted and bare; and like the former, notwithstanding that it had mighty roots, spreading far and deep in the ground, it was blown up in a tempest and laid along."
THE SEVEN SISTERS.
At the entrance from the high road on the east side of the highway at Page Green, there stands a remarkable large and handsome clump of seven elm trees, planted in a circular form, in the centre of which there formerly stood a walnut tree, the pre- vailing opinion respecting which, has already been noticed.^^ The elms were in their ftill growth in Bedwell's time, and they may at this day be considered to be upwards of five hundred years old. They are now fast going to decay, and in a very few years they will be gone and forgotten altogether.
Deteend, my miue, from hill and woodland clime.
And ponder 'mid the sUUrs seven awhile ^63 Come ! with the spirit of departed fame.
Talk o'er their tale, and sterner mood beguile—
(62) See page 43 ante. (63) «* Tottenham/'- a poem by J. A. Heraud.
3 i
THB SBV£N 8I8TBR8 ROAD. 45
Who laugh lin not, had tin they who but mile ff
Then lean, these elmt, three handled jmx% ago» GnerdonM aa many •ieter's eeveral toil.
Of whom one was diminntire, and so The elm she planted grew— inegolar and low. Nay, I have err'd — of elms and sisters eight
Runs the whole tale ;— and in the centre stood The eighth yonng sapling, blooming, till flite
Smote the fair planter, in her ruthless mood, Blighted her beauty, chill'd her tiUI blood—
And lo ! her kindred and peculiar tree, ff ith wild and strange intelligence endued,
Wither'd, and droop'd and died — and so did she!^ Say, why had not the rest like manrellotts sympathy ? And in its place long stood a walnnt tree ^
Still bearing leaves, but not in bulk or height Increasing ; and tradition, vague and free.
Tells— on the spot one who believed the light SofRer'd, a martyr, from the world's despite—
And thence a horror of great darkness fell Full on each blasted branch, a withering blight ;
And still the ban was on it, like a spell
Memorial and a sign— a warning miracle !
THE SEVEN SISTERS ROAD.
This road was made by the Commissioners of the Metropolis Roads, north of the Thames. It was begun in the year 1831^ and completed and opened for the public in 1833.
This road commences at Gloucester Gate, Regents Park, and extends as far as the high road at Tottenham, opposite the clump of trees at the entrance to Page Green, called the Seven Sisters,
The expence attending the making the road was as follows : ^
£. e. A
Purchase of land and expenses of drainings, and
conveyances of land purchased 1015 10 3
Fencing and making roads by contract 1830 Oil
Carried forward £2845 11 2
(64) See Bedwell, for this trsdition. (66) From the Seventh Report of the Commissioners, 25th March, 1833.
46 THE SEVEN SISTERS ROAD.
£. #. d.
Brought forwaid 2845 11 2
Materials^ inclttding whaifiige, &c 2091 8 10
Team labour and cartage 1497 18 9
Day labour^ and work, in preparing materials 751 13 8
Tradesmen's bUls, &c 94 7 9
Sunreying, and plans 138 9 0
Bridge over the New River — £. *. d.
Brick-work 339 13 6
Iron-work . .". 216 15 3
Cutting and turning the river . % 266 4 5
822 12 2
Damage done in digging gravel 6 5 0
To which, add — materials, cartage, tradesmen's
bills, &c. completing the improvements near
the junction with the Seven Sisters Road . . 114 5 7
New River Company, widening the bridge . . 100 0 0
Total £8462 11 11
The road was made under the provisions of an act of parlia- ment, (7 Geo. IV, c. 142).
That part of it which was commenced at Camden Town and was carried as fiir as HoUoway, was made previous to 1833 by the former trustees, at the cost of £16,000., and the other part from HoUoway to the Stamford Hill turnpike road, was made by the present commissioners, at the cost of £24,000., making the whole cost £40,000. There is only one turnpike on the line of this road as far as HoUoway. The cost of the repair of the road is estimated at about £400. per mile. At first the tolls were let for £600. per annum, but the last year they were let only for £360. per annum.
The accommodation afforded to the inhabitants of Tottenham and its immediate neighbourhood is worthy of regard : the access to the west end of the town is rendered considerably nearer than by the former course of the road through Islington ; besides which^ the communications with the great north road to Hertfordshire, Cambridge, &c,. and the eastern counties, has become far more eligible, and also with the road which passes through the Hale
-iHB FORC8T OF ITIDDLCSBX. 47
to Waidiaiiistow, in the county of Eg«ez. This new road has at- tracted the attention of the trustees of those aroand it, and in 1832 it was in contemplation to make a new line of road from Tottenham Mills, nearthe Seven Sisters, to join a road then forming through Pairmead Bottom from Woodford, in Essex ; bat whether this pro- ject will ever be carried into execution is not certain at the present time. The Seven Sisters Road, like all newly-made roads, was for some time loose and inconvenient to travel upon, but as the thoronghfetre increased it has become solid and smooth.
There is no doubt that as soon as a neighbourhood is formed, and houses are built on the sides, of which there are several now in progress between Camden Town and HoUoway, this road, in the course of a very few years, will have the same accommodation and protection which is afforded to the roads in its immediate vicinity, by lighting, watching, &c.
THE FOREST OF MIDDLESEX.
In the early part of our history, the country north of London was one immense forest, covered with wood, and wholly un- cultivated.^
This forest was first penetrated in order to make the Via Origi- nalzs, or fVatling Street/ but becoming neglected after the de- parture of the Romans, it soon resumed its former appearance.
In the reign of Edward the Confessor, the course of the royal way ^'a limbo dltrioB usque Londoniam fert^^ a line of '' opaca nemoraJ**^ This tract of land, which afterwards obtained the name of The Forest of Middlesex ^ was the harbour not only of thieves and robbers, outlaws and fogitives, but of wolves, wild boars^ stags, and wild bulls. '' Abundabant enim eo tempore per totam ciltriam ^^ nemora spatiosa densa, et copiosa, inquibus ha^ bitabtmit diversce besti€By lupi, apri, tauri, syhestres et cervi
(06) Britannia, pag« 224, ed. London, 1590, 8vo. Gibbons. (67) Matt. Pant, Tits Abbat S. Albani, in Leofttano. (68) The ChiUern Hundreds, as it is now called.
48 THE FOREST OF MIDDLESEX.
abundantur necnon et qui plus nocuerunt prtEdaneSy ItUroneSf ves- pilliones, exules, et fugitivi.**^^
Between the yean 1170 and 1182^ on the north side of London there were com fields, pastures, and delightful meadows, inter- mixed with pleasant streams, on which stood several mills. Be- yond them an immense forest extended itself, beautified with woods and groves full of lairs and coverts of game, stags, bucks, wild boars, and wild buUs.^o These wild bulls^i were in all pro- bability the same breed as those of Andaluna in Spain, which were small cattle, and such as existed in the northern counties of England, and of which a herd is still preserved in Chillingham park, the seat of the Earl of TankerviUe. These animals were in England many years before the reign of Edgar,^^ whose in- dustrious policy is said to have produced such diligence in hunt* ing wolves y " that they were no more seen in England ; " so says Mr. Humey in his History of England ,- but this seems to be an error, for these animals were in England many years after the reign of Edgar, even so late as the time of Henry VI. A.D. 1485.
In the forest of Middlesex, the citizens of London had obtained the right of free chase, which was confirmed by several statutes.^^
In the statute of Henry I, '' et cives London, habeanty /uga- tiones suas ad fugandum, sicut melius et plenius habuerint an- ceccores eorum suby in chiltre et Middlesex et Surr :" and in the charter of Henry II, ^^ Concedo etiam eis quod habeant fuga- tiones suas ubicunque eas habuerint tempore reg. H. avi met."
In the reign of Henry II, (1154) the parish of Tottenham, as well as that of Edmonton, Enfield, and the adjoining parishes, was for the great part a forest ; and in all probability Tottenham Hangre (otherwise Tottenham Wood) was a portion of this ex- tensive forest, which was so large that it extended from the part of the city of London called Houndsditch to about twelve miles
(69) See note 65, pagpe 47, ante. (70) Fitz-stephen's Surrey and Description of London, translated, with notes, 1712, 4 to, p. 26.
(71) See King Canute's Consiitutiones de Foresta in Spdm, glou. 241. (72/ He came to the crown in 959, and reigned sixteen years, and died in 975.
(73) Luffman's Lond* Charters, 1792, 4to.
THE FORBST OP MIDDLK8BX. 49
north of London^ and was the joint property of the whole ooirpo- latioD of the city of London : 74 Elnfield Chase was a portion of diis forest » which also behw^^ to the citizens of London. 76
In this forest the citizen enjoyed the diversion of fowling with merlins and hatoisy and sach other exercises as were oonunon in those days ; but as commerce and a love of indnstry increased, these diveisions were in a great measure neglaeted, and the forest of Middlesex was gradually hud open^ so that at last it became the property of many individaals. It was not however disaflbr* ested until the year 1218, in the reign of Henry III.76 But the ancient wood, which aflbrded cover to its qaadmped inhabitants, remained for many years after. Of this description of wood was Hampstead Woody Tottenham fVood, and Enfield Chase, which covered several thousand acres of land. 77 In the year 1777, it was disafforested by act of parliament (17 Geo. Ill, c. 17.) 78 and the greater part has been stocked up and enclosed ; so that of this once immense forest very little remain^ at this day.
The &ce of the country had a very different appearance when it was first invaded by the Romans fix>m what it has at this time : for although the position of its valleys and mountains has always been the same, yet so many of them were covered with woods that the whole island is said to have been one " horrida sylins.**79 One of the chief difficulties the Romans met with in poahing their conquests in England was that of making their way through these woods, and guarding against the sallies of the Bri- toms firom the forests. This obliged them to make cuts through the woods aa they advanced, so boroad, that they might be in no danger of sorprise, and they afterwards cleared away much greater quantities for foel, and for the sake of agriculture.^o
It la said that the Ermine, or Ermmage Street, which was one of the fonr Roman roads in England, and which extended from St.
(74) Thomjton'B Hut. LoiuL, 1784, ptge 480.
(75) Maiiland'i London, page 78 ; Lord LytUeton't Hist. lU, page 274.
(77) BnSdd Cbase alone contained 7900a. at the time of the propoied division, 1650, called " Olwer Cr<mweiPs DMsUm/* See Robinson's History of Enfldd« ▼ol. I. p. 179, cd. 1^93.
(76) Maitland's London, page 78.
(78) Lamb. Load., toI. iv, page 244. (79) Leland's Hen. VI, 104.
(80) Cssar de Bel. Gal. I. V. C, 15-19 ; Hen. Hist, of Ot. Britain, \, 433.
o
so TOTTENHAM WOOD.
David's^ in Wales, to Sootliamploii, passed through at near the west of this parish north fiom London, in the course before men- tioned.8i Enfield Chase is the only part of the extensive forest of Middlesex now remaining.
When King James I. resided at Theobalds, this Chase was stocked with deer, bat the parliament army, during the civil wan, destroyed all the game and cat down the trees, and the ground was let oat in small &rms ; so it oontinned till the Restoration, when young trees were planted, and the whole again stocked with game : since the year 1777, this chase has been from time to time cleared of the wood, and the greatest part of it now is in a state of cultivation.^
TOTTENHAM WOOD.
The only wood which now remains in the parish, and which is of small extent, is called '^ Tottenham Wood,** on the western side of the high road, upon a hill, about one mile and a half dis* tant. The woods in former times occupied a large portion of land, but about the fifteenth century they began to decrease.
There is an old saying relative to Tottenham Wood: —
" When Tottenham Wood it ill on fire, Then Tottenham Street ii nought bat mire.'*
It used, in former times, to be remarked that whenever a fpg or mist rose out of the Wood, and hung over it like smoke> it was a sign of rainy weather ; and the street, lying low, was in such case, for the most part overflowed with water.
.There is another explanation of this proverb; that is, Totten- ham Wood is said to have fiimished that part of Londou nearest to it with wood for fiiel, and when thcU was all on fire, i. e. during
the winter season, Tottenham Street was extremely foul and miry.83
(81) See page 3 ante, and Salmon's New Surrey, page 406.
(82) See Robinaon's History of Enfield, vol.1, p. 179, 1823.
(83) Grose's Local Proverbs, art. London.
TOTTBNHAM WOOD. 51
Tboagb high the Hill ud Tast the Wood, And thick the foreit hretbten stood— Thou, winrd Wood of Toteham't brow. An Omen to the valley thou ! Hovering like smoke npoo thy crest, When mist involves thy fiery breast,
Dark as on Snowdon lowers. In many an eddying Tolame rolled ; The trembling tenanU of the Wold,
Prophetic of the showeit, I>read the dark angary of the Flood, Which aye to make thy warning good
Still on their harvest pours, And sorrow &eT the deluged plain. Which Hope had blessed, hot blessed in vain ! And ever superstitions Eld, As oft as she the Fog beheld.
Accused the spirits ill. Who haunted then the wildering Wood, And raised the porunt of the Flood,
That mantled o'er the hill ; And laughed to see the ruin spread. And triumphed in the peasant's dread :
But now she smiles to see The Winter morn so clear and blue. The Wood of such a snowy hue.
From doad and vapour free ; And that the tempest of the night Had passed, when many a wicked sprite
Joyously revelled there; And lo, the Hill no threatening bore, And the calm azure sweetly wore
A look of promise fiilr.M
In Tottenham Wood there was fonnerly a well, called Dun- stances or Dunstan^s Wellfi^ gome remains of which are still to be seen^ which was bricked on the sides : but since the Wood has been stocked up and laid oat in fields, the meadow in which this well is, has been for some years known by the name of Dunstan*s Well Field; bat the well itself is now almost forgotten : its pre- cise site may be seen in the Earl of Dorset's Survey, 1619, and and the modem map of the parish : it is near Bounds Green.
(84) The Legend of St. Bloy, by J. A. Heraud ; canto U, sec. 16.
(85) See page 19 ante.
52 TOTTENHAM WOOD.
There is also another ancient proverb relating to Tottenham Wood : ** You shall as easily remove Tottenham Wood" Speaking of things impossible, or not likely to be effected ; for the hill upon which this Wood stood was not only very high, but of great extent (about 400a.) therefore not easily to be re- moved.®^
On the south-west side of this Wood, but in the parish of Homsey, formerly stood a mansion called Mattysons, which was the birth-place, and afterwards the seat, of Sir Julius Ccesar.s?
Bed well, in his Brief Decription of Tottenham (anno 1631), as respects the Woods, says, ** It hath diuers and sundry Woods, whereof some are of very great extent ; more it hath had in for- mer times, but they dayly decrease, and are dayly fewer and fewer, and as they decrease in number, so these few increase not in quantity ; for such is the intolerable spoyle that is here made of wood, that I cannot blame those that are the owners, if they do, so farre as law and license permit, stocke them up."
The Woods, which, in. the year 1500, covered many hundred acres of land, began to decrease about the year 1600, both in number and quantity. At the present time, Tottenham Wood is of very little extent, being for the greater part stocked up and converted into arable and pasture ground.
" The English priests who had fled into the Netherlands as- sembled themselves at Doway, in the year 1508, by the procure- ment of William Allen, an Oxford man, the most learned amongst them, and framed themselves as a common discipline after the manner of a college, to whom the bishop of Rome assigned a year pension. Afterwards, the Netherlands running into con- fusion, and the English fugitives being banished thence by com- mand of Don Louis de Requesens, a seminary priest was elected at Rheims by the Guises, the Queen of Scots kinsman, and an- other at Rome by Gregory XIII, which, as time consumed the popish priests in England, might still supply new, to sow the seeds of the Romish religion in England, whereupon they were called seminaries, and those that were there bred up in them
(86) Tottenham Wood contains now about 11a. (87) For an accoaat of the family of Csesar, tee Extracts from the Parish Register, post .
TOTTBNHAM WOOD. 53
wen eommonly cidled seminary priests. In these ooUegee or seminaries, whilst among other things, dispatations were held ooneeming the ecclesiastical and temporal power, zeal to the pope, their founder, hatred against the Queen, and hope of restoring the Roman religion by the Queen of Scots, carried some of them so far, that they readily persuaded themselves, and so maintained, that the bishop of Kome hath, by divine right, fitll power over the whole world, as well in ecclesiastical as temporal causes ; and that he, according, to take absolute power, may excommunicate kings, and, having so done, dethrone them, and absolve their sub- jects firom their oath of allegiance. Hereupon was that bull, de- claratory of Pius QuintuSy published, in the year 1569, and upon that bull brake forth the rebellion in the north parts of England, and then also in Ireland, whereof I spake a little before; and many withdrew themselves from the received service of God, which before they had frequented without any scruple. Uanse, JVelsan, and Maine, priests, and Sherwood, peremptorily taught that the Queen was a schismatic and a heretic, and therefore to be deposed : for which they were put to death.
'^ Out of these seminaries were sent forth into divers parts of £«ngland and Ireland, at first, a few young men, and afterwards more, according as they grew up, who were entered over*hastily into holy Orders, and instructed in the abovementioned principles. They pretended only to administer the sacraments of the romish religion, and to preaqh to papists ; but the queen and her council soon found that they were sent, under-hand, to seduce the sub- jects from their allegiance and obedience due to their prince, to oblige them by reconciliation to perform the Pope's commands, to stir up intestine rebellions under the seal of confession, and flatly to execute the sentence of Pius Quintus against the Queen ; to the end that way might be made for the Pope and the Spaniard, who had of late designed the conquest of Ejigland.
" To these seminaries were sent daily out of England by the
vspists, in contempt and despite of the laws, great number of boys
md yonBg men of all sorts, and admitted into the same, making
^ ^ return into England : others also crept secretly from
■^^
54 TOTTENHAM WOOD FARM.
thence into the land, and more were daily expected with the Jesuits^ who at this time first came into England."
The following is an extract from the original confession of one John Bntahfordy a seminary priest,®^ preserved in the Lansdowne volume 96^ art. 63 ; it at least affords a notion of the difficulties which the seminary priests had to encounter in their missions. He says,
^* I came over a ly ttell before the laste Statute made agaynst the cominge in of Preestes, and by reason therof I founde everye bodye so fearfuU as none woold receave me into ther houses ; Wherfore I, with an other preeste caled John Tadde, hyred a chamber in a poore cottage in the woode by Totnam Hygherosse, wher we remayned close six or seven monethes, sendinge the poore man to the Cyttye for Victualls. After this I laye in Hogg- lane, at one Mrs. Tempestes, a wydow woman, the space of other five or six monethes. I had also a chamber in Grayes Inne Lane, at one Blakes howse, unto the which I resorted when I knew not whether to go els. I was once at Clarkenwell at Sir Jo. Anmdells, but, for that he was then in treble in the Star chamber about one Mr. Hygynes a preeste, I coulde not be receaved, but I was with him afterward in the Gate House. As for my Ladye his wyfe, I protest before God, as I hope to be saved, I never was with her or in her presence any where to my remembrance, for she was ever fearefiiU, and, after Sir John's troble, never beare yonge preestes any good will."
TOTTENHAM WOOD FARM.
The farm, which now occupies the site of " Tottenham Wood," is called Tottenham Wood Farm, situated on the hill at the west extremity of the parish, and forms part of the western boundary. It is said to consist of about 400a. of land, but the greater part
(88) The reader who it desirous to know the history of the Seminary Priests, is re- ferred to Camden under the year 1580.
PROVERBS. 55
of the wood having been gradaaUy felled, the land has been brought into cultivation. At this day very little of the ancient wood remains, little more than eleven acres.
On the west side of this him, between Biyrkett*$ Style ^^ and Bowetheath Gate, in the parish of Homsey, there formerly stood a noble mansion, called '' MeUtyson's**^ the birth place and sab- seqaently the residence of Sir Jolius Cssar. This farm, which consisted of about three hundred and sixty-seven acres, also formed part of the possessions of the late James Townsend, Esq., and was purchased at the sale ^^ of his estates by a Mr. Mitchell, a tobacconist, in Norton Folgate, London, for about £11,910.^ On the death of Mr. MitcheU, Mr. Thomas Rhodes, the present proprietor, became the purchaser of it.
There were about 19a. 3r. 35p. in the parish of Clerkenwell.
The fiirm house and buildings, and a croft then in the occupa- tion of a Mr. Grover, were copyhold, held of the manor of Horn- sey^ at a small quit rent, subject to a fine upon death or aliena- tion^ at the will of the lord : it is entirely detached from the rest of the estate.
Mr. Mitchell, soon after he purchased this farm, built a good house upon it^ and laid out a considerable sum of money in im- provements. Mr. Rhodes now resides in this house.
PROVERBS.
Therb is another ancient proverb relating to the parish : " Tot- tenham is turned French^ The occasion of this proverb has been considered to have arisen from the circumstance of many French people having in former times taken up their abode in the parish.
About the beginning of the reign of Henry VIII, a vast num- her of French mechanics came over to England, filling not only
(89) So called in the Suryej of the Earl of Donet, 1619.
(90) See ibid. (91) See Appendix No. I, page 10, for a particular acconnt of this ale.
(92) See ibid.
56 RARE PLANTS.
the out skirts of the town, but also the neighbouring villages^ to the great prejudice of the English artizans, which caused the in- surrection in London^ May-day, (Anno. 1517.)
This proverb is used in ridicule of persons affecting foreign fashions and manners in preference to those of their own country.93
The sense in which this proverb has been used by John Hey- wood is as follows : ^^
"The Uacke oxe not trods on his or her ibote,
Bnt ere bis branch of blisse could reach anjr roote«
The dowers so faded, that in flfteene weekes,
A man might espye the change in bis cheekes,
Both of this poore wretch, and his wife, poore wench.
Their laces told toyes, that Tottenham was turned French ;
And all the light laughing, turn'd and translated
Into sad sighing, all mirth was abated."
RARE PLANTS.
Adoxa Moschatellina — Tuberous Mbschatel, found in a lane near Tottenham.
Agaricus extinctorious — Conic agric, found in the meadows.
Boletus igniarius — hard boletus, touch-wood, or spunk, found on the willows near Tottenham Mills.
Hypnum imbricannm — common hypnum, found in Tottenham Wood.
Hypnum compressum — compressed hypnum, found in Totten- ham Wood^ and in the meadows.
Lathyrus nysolia — crimson grass vetch, found in a meadow, near Tottenham High Cross.
(93) OroM'k Local Pro'verbs, art. London. (94) J. Hey wood's book was printed by Thomas Bartlet, in the year mdzlti.
TOTTBNHAM TOKENS. 51
TOTTENHAM TOKENS.
Thb tradesmen in this parish as well as those of other parishes, in the seventeenth oentory, had thdr tokens, two of which are here represented.
No. L No. n.
''No. I." is dated 1665, and has on the obverse a rose, sur- mounted by a crown, with "sarah hotlbs'' round ; <m the reverse, s^H and round "in tattnam." This appears to have been the token of one Sarah Hoyles, who at that time probably kept the Rose and Crown ale-house, on the east side of the high road near the High Cross, and opposite to the Swan inn. This house is now standing, and still occupied as a public house, known by the same sign.
The other token, " No. 2,** is dated 1666 ; the obverse has in the centre ^ g and round "m tatnam ;** the reverse, "christ- OPHBR miller;" in the centre is the date, 1666. This last token ^was ibund in pulling down part of Queen Elizabeth's Palace at Enfield, in 1789. Christopher Miller was, probably, the ancestor of a poor fiunily of that name, sh<q>keepers, who have resided for many years in this parish. Tlie only one of that &mily now living in Tottenham, is Elizabeth Miller, who keeps a little uhop in one of the houses on the east side of the high road, belonging to the parish, near the Bell and Hare ale-house, and of^Kwite to the Baptist Chapel.
It does not appear that there was any particular design in these tokens; very likely they were used by small tradesmen, either to extend their connexion, or to encourage good feeling.
H
58 TOTTENHAM HALE — THE GREENS.
TOTTENHAM HALE.
Tottenham Hale is a small hamlet belonging to the parish of Tottenham^ and lies to the eastward of the Cross ; it is ap- proached by a lane called " High Cross Liane/' and sometimes " Hale Lane : '' there is another approach from the high road by the Seven Sisters; Page Green^ and Bound's Lane; it consists of about one hundred and twenty-five houses^ and there are aboaat six hundred and twenty-five inhabitants. Either of these ap- proaches leads to the Marshes^ the flour and oil mills, the old ferry house, called " Hughes' Ferry," and from thence into the parish of Walthamstow, in Essex.
THE GREENS.95
The greens and waste grounds in early times were very exten- sive, and formed a. considerable part of this parish, that is to say,
fVood Oreen is situated about two miles west from the high road, and consists of ten houses on the common and fifty in- habitants, some of which were formerly good residences. The New River crosses this green from north to south. About three quarters of a mile north west of Wood Green Common is Tottenham Wood Farm, in the occupation of Mr. Thomas Rhodes.
West Green is also part of the parish, and is situated about a mile west from the high road ; it consists of about seventeen or eighteen houses at the Green, some of which are respectable family residences : there are about ninety inhabitants. There is a pump on the Green which is supplied from a main spring of soft water for the use of the inhabitants, part of the expense of which was paid by the parish, and the remainder by voluntary contributions.
(95) All the Greent here noticed are clearly shown in the Earl of Doitet'a Suivey,
of 1619.
i'2
THE GRSENS. 59
Ducket's Green lies nearly qppoeite to " Duekeft Farm,*' on the west side of the Southgate road : it is an open space of no great extent.
Chapman's Oreen is nearly at tlie extremity of Lordship Lane, on the side of the road leading to EUses Green.
Elses Green is a short distance from Chapman's Green, and not far firom Wood Grreen. The New River crosses this green on the north side
Hangre Green is situated nearly at the extremity of Hangre, or Chisley Lane, opposite the lands belonging to St. John's of Jerosalexn, and not far from Beans Green.
Beans Green is situated on the west of the high road, bounded on the east by the lands of St John of Jerusalem, and west by Homsey parish.
Smith Cross Green is an open space, in the centre of which, in 1619, there was a plot of land, called " Roundabouts i" it lies northward of Elses Green, and bounds towards the north on the parish of Eklmonton.
Page Green Road is situated on the east side of the high road, nearly opposite Black-up Lane and the newly made road to the west end of the town, called the '^ Seven Sisters Road." The ancient clump of trees, known as the Seven Sisters, stands imme- diately in the front of this green ; it is a large open space with a piece of water in the centre, and surrounded by some good resi- dences. The road through this green leadd to Broad Lane, and the Hale, Down Lane, and Hale Field* It crosses the Northern and Eastern Railway to the Marshes, and leads to the Flour and
Oil Mills.
Tottenham (High Cross) Green is more extensive than the other greens ; it is situated on the west side of the high road between the Seven Sisters and the High Cross : it is a large open space enclosed with posts and rails, and surrounded by many ex- cellent family residences. The lately erected chapel of ease, called '^ Trinity Chapel," stands on the north side of this green.
Scotland Green is situated a little to the north of Sanchez's Almshouses, on the east side of the high road. The Girls' Charity Schopl, called the " Blue School," occupies part of the
60 LANES AND HIGHWAYS.
front of this green next the road, and the other part is occupied by the Watch-house. At the east end of this green the road or footway communicates with the Marshes : on either side there are many small tenements, occupied by the industrious part of the community. The river Moselle, which crosses the road opposite to Scotland Grreen, runs on the north side, and communicates with Carbuncle or Garbell Ditch, and so on through the Marsh to the river Lea.
A great part of these greens have been enclosed from time to time, as may be seen by reference to the title " Waste Lands."
THE LANES AND HIGHWAYS.
Besides the Church and the Seven Sisters Roads there are many ancient lanes and highways in this parish : a sh<»t account of them is here given, beginning with those on the east side of the turnpike road from Stamford Hill.
At no great distance fit>m Stamford Hill turnpike gate, there is a short lane which leads from the high road to the river Lea, the coal wharf on its bank, and the Marshes.
Page Oreen Road leads from the Seven Sisters to Bounds Lane, and so on to the Hale and the Hale Field
IKgh Cross Lane leads also from the high road on the south side of the Cross, to the Hale and Broad I/ane Road.
There is a short road or footway from Scotland Green which leads into the Marshes.
Marsh Lane, is opposite to the late nursery ground, for many years known as " Coleman's Nursery,*' and passing by the form called " Asplins," in the occupation of Mr. W. Delano, leads also into the Marshes.
f^^ggon Horse Lane, which is the last on this side of the highway, also leads to the Marshes.
Then crossing the highway and going towards the south on the west side, the first is
White Hart Lane, the upper part of which by the lands known as '' Crook's Grove," was at the time of the Earl of
ANCI£NT HOUSBt, FORMBRLY INNS. 61
Dorset's Suxyey, and long befiore, called Apekmd Street, whi< •ft^ considerable windings and turnings, leads on the south side of the parsonage grounds towards the north west to Clay HiU, and no iiurther ; but it continues towards the south west by the par- sonage grounds to Elses Green, Wood Green, and Chapman's Green, crossing the New River, into the Southgate road.
XordsAtp Lane, formerly called '' Berry Lane," leads from the high road to Chapman's Green, EHses Grreen, and Wood Green, and Tottenham Wood Farm.
Philip Lane leads from Tottenham Grreen to West Green, and Docket's Green, on the confines of Homsey.
Black-up Lane, otherwise called '' Black-hope Lane," leads Grom the highway opposite the Seven Sisters to West Green and Ducket's Green.
Hangre Lane, formerly called " Chisley Lane," leads from the (bot of Stamford Hill to Hangre Green, Beans Green, West Grieen, and Docket's Green, &c.^
ANCIENT HOUSES, FORMERLY INNS.
On the east side of the highway, a short distance from White Hart Lane, there is an ancient hoose divided into separate dwell- ings, one of which is in the occupation of Mr. Wall, Chemist, and the other of Mr. Isaac, stage coach proprietor : this hoose was for many years in the occupation of Mr. Story, a butcher, who was sncceeded by Mr. l\Lck : it was formerly a considerable inn, known by the sign of The Lamb. The house is lath and plaster boilt, with four pediments in the front, and appears from th^ style to have been erected about the latter end of the fourteenth or the beginning of the fifteenth century. There was a small farm at- tached to this house in the rear, with a large yard, stables, &c.
There was also another ancient house, which stood at the north- east comer of White Hart Lane : this was also an inn of some
(^) See the Earl of Dorset't Suryey, of 1619, where all theie roads are plainly bid &OWO,
62 ANCIENT HOUSBS^ FORMERLY INNS.
note^ and in the year 1620 it was known by the sign of The Horns. The upper part of White Hart Lane at this time was called jipeland Street, on the north side of which there were two pieces of land^ called Apehnd, then in the occupation of T. Goddard^ on the west of a piece of land^ called Sly Field. This house^ with the yard^ coach-houses, stables, &c., was for many years, in the occupa- tion of Mr. Hunter, coach proprietor ; but some years ago, the license was removed to an ancient house now known by the sign of The White Hart Inn, on the east side of the high road op- posite to the nursery ground formerly in the occupation of the late William Coleman. The house was divided into several distinct dwellings, and successively occupied by respectable individuak. In the year 1824, the greater part thereof was pulled down, and the site of it, with the ground attached was sold in lots, upon which there are now standing several large shops in the front next the high Road, and some smaller houses on the north side of White Hart Lane. The remaining part of this ancient house, with the stables, &c., is now in the several occupations of Mr. Curling, butcher, and Mr. St. John, stage-coach proprietor. It was at these stables the horses of Henry VIII stood when he came to visit his minister Henningham, who lived at the Black House, now known as Northumberland Row, on the east side of the high road, opposite White Hart Lane, after noticed.
On the east side of the highway, nearly opposite to Bruce Orove, but a little to the southward, there formerly stood a large and commodious house, known as The George and Vulture, which was in early times much frequented by the citizens of Lon- don taking' their recreations at Tottenham; attached to this house was a large garden, bowling green, and a piece of water, well stocked with fish, and stabling for many horses : besides the accommodation within the house, there was a large and handsome banquetting room in the garden, which was also used as an as- sembly room. This house was some years ago discontinued as a tavern, and about the year 1807 it was in the occupation of Mr. Freer, who kept a boarding school there for boys ; it was then the property of the late Mr. Charles Pratt. After the decease of Mr. Pratt, in 1818, the house and grounds, containing about 4a. were
K
PLAN
of an Estate $itudk at , ,
TOTTENHAM.
Ccmer of
^Vkiie Harl Lme.
^maJi/ Maititt S-Jokn.
ANCIENT HOUSES, FORMERLY INNS. 63
let by his devisees to Mr. Thomas Finney ; and in the year 1829^ Mr. Thomas Holmes Sparks^ who married the only daughter of Hr. Pratt, granted a lease for seventy-one years from midsummer, 1829, to Mr. Finney, who very soon afterwards pulled down the old house, which was in a dilapidated state, and on its site, in front next the high road, he built several respectable dwellings with shops : the remainder of these premises is occupied by himself. The banquetting room is the only part of the old house that re- mains, which was converted into a stable, and used as such for many years ; but the room has been lately restored to its former state ; it is of good dimensions, and might be used for many use- ful purposes. In taking down the old house, many silver coins of the reign of Elizabeth and Charles I. were found in a very perfect state. The coat of arms of Queen Elizabeth was fixed over the front door; but when the house was taken down, the coat of arms was removed : it is now to be seen fixed in the wall at the back of a house at the corner of Hale Lane, in the occupa- tion of Mr. Goodacre.
In the 14th century, there was an ancient house, lath and plas- ter built, with pediments, (two of which are still to be seen) simi« lar to those already mentioned ; this house is situated on the east side of the highway at the extremity of the parish. It was then, and for many years after, known as the Ale Brewhouse ; and was divided into distinct tenements many years since. Part of the old house still remains, in the occupation of Pomfret, AUard, and others. In the year 1747, it was, with some land, and a large yard, barn, &c. conveyed in fee to one William Chancellor, who died in 1772; after whose death this property came into the family of the Oarmans, and was divided according to the direc- tions of Mr. Chancellor's will amongst that family, but the whole, except the land behind, which is still in the possession of Mr. Thomas Grarman, about 6a., has been since sold to several indi- viduals.
There is another ancient house, known as The Red Lion inn, situated opposite Lordship Lane, on the east side of the high road. On the back gable, which is built of brick, in the style of the Flemish houses, with two pediments, now plastered over, there was
64 ANCIENT HOUSRSy FORMERLY INNS.
in one of them a coat of arms carved in stone^ and what could be de- cyphered aboat fifty years ago, was Paly of Six Ou. Or. Sable, a ♦ ♦ ♦ between two martlett9, impaling a cross .• ♦ ♦ ♦ in the dexter canton a jleur de lis ; it is now hid from view by the plaster. No doubt the front of this house was in unison with the back^ but the repairing hand of the workman has completely al- tered its ancient appearance; still there are some parts which bear the marks of antiquity, particularly the north gable wall, which has not undergone any material alteration.
The Bull ale-house claims title to antiquity : it stands on the site of the Hermitage, noticed in page 16, ante, and was probably built about the middle of the sixteenth century; it had pedi- ments similar to the ancient houses before mentioned.
There was formerly an inn of some note on the east side of Tottenham Green, in a place now called Ship Yard, and also one on the west side of the same green, of which mention will be made hereafter.
In early times to travel from home was a serious undertaking ; and even a hundred years ago it was considered hazardous. It was not safe nor common to travel on foot, excepting on pil- grimages ; horse«back was the usual method of journeying for persons of every rank and station. The roads were very bad, sel- dom more than mere tracts, something like the worst of the few remaining parish cross roads. The aged and the infirm were oc- casionally dragged along in carriages, but those were mere carts without springs, or with a sort of hammock slung from poles.
Inns were rare and unknown till the latter part of the 16th century : travellers sought for accommodation in monastmes, or in private houses, when overtaken by the -night. The ancient inns, before the 16th century, may generally be traced to the re- sort of pilgrims and others to a neighbouring shrine bringing more than the monastic brethren chose to harbour. The cham- bers above opening into galleries, ascended by stairs from the court yard. The rooms below were for eating and drinking, and for business. The inn yards were often used for science or theatric cal representation : the spectators stood or sat in the galleries ; the actors strutted out from behind a curtain hung at one aide
LICENSED VICTUALLING HOV8E9. 65
and delivered their speecbes. The drama at this period were chiefly histories firom Scriptare^ prepared and arranged by the ecclesiastics ; many of them were of a most extraordinary descrip* tion, and> in some instances, a profanation of the gospel.
When goods were conveyed fiom one inland place to another, it was chiefly on pack horses : thus we find a horse-load of oysters sent to John of Oaunt from Colchester : and when Poiion sent from ^offolk to London {at a hat, in the fifteenth century, the carrier was to wear it on his ride homeward. The internal con- YejBnce of bnlky articles of food was difficult, and rendered more so by the taxes demanded by every town or great landholder tbroagh whose boundaries the commodities passed ; so that there was no encouragement for the farmer to grow more than his own neighbourhood could consume, unless he had the benefit of water carriage ; and canals were then unknown. In the year 1258, com at Northampton was sold for more than double the price it bore at Dwistable.
An inn of the above description is to be seen at Oloueeeter, (known as the New Inn J ; many such innS existed in country towns long before the sixteenth century, but this inn seems to be the only one now remaining, and bears marks of great antiquity.
•^ List of licensed Victualling Houses in the parish of Tot ten-
ham, 1839.
The Bell and Hare, east side of the high road, and south of Marsh Lane.
Black Boy, West Green.
Bull, east side of the high road, opposite Orove House, near Tottenham Ghreen.
Coach and Horses, east side of the street. Lower Tottenham.
Qeorge and Vulture, east side of the high road, nearly oppo- site Bruce Orove.
Plough, east side of the high road.
Queen*s Head, West Green.
Red Lien, east side of the high road, opposite Lordship Lane. Roebuck, east side of the street. Lower Ward.
66 THI MANUFACTORIES.
The Rose and Croum, near the Cross. Ship, west side of the street. Swan, High Cross.
. Three Compasses, Qaeen Street^ in White Hart Lane. Three Jolly Butchers, Wood Green^ on the Soathgate Road. Waggon and Horses, east side of the high road^ Lower Tot- tenham. White Hart, east side of the high road, north of Marsh Lane. White Hart, in the Hale. Besides the above public houses, there are ten houses licensed for the sale of beer, ale, and porter, by retail, under the statutes 10 Geo. 4, c. 7 and 8, and the 1, W. IV, c. 54.
MANUFACTORIES.
The Caoutchouc Manufactory.
In the year 1815, an extensive building was erected on the east side of the high road, nearly opposite Bruce Grove, by Mr. Louis Freboiit, a native of France, for the purpose of throwing and winding silk. These premises consist of two ranges of building, each four stories high, with a steam engine. Mr. Frebotkt soon dis- covered that his proposed plan for preparing silk for the manu- factories would not succeed; and, about the year 1820, he gave up his project, and let the buildings to Messrs. Lacy and Fisher, at £700. per annum, who converted the machinery to making British lace, in which there were about three hundred persons, men, women, and children, employed. The four houses in front of the road on the east side were also erected by Mr. Frebo^t, and the expense of these houses, buildings, and steam engine was between £25,000. and £30,000. After Messrs. Fisher and Lacy left the premises, Mr. Herbert occupied them as a lace manufEkctory for three or four years.
A company, called The London Caoutchouc Company, was es- tablished by act of parliament in the year 1837, who became
THB MANUFACTOR1B8. 67
lessee of these premises. The company was formed principally for the working of several patents for the q^cation o( eaouuhaue, (the Indian rubber) : it had also for its object the procoring the introduction of a steady and ample supply of Indian rubber to this country^ and especially from our Asiatic colonies^ and to facilitate its Implication to many branches of our manu&ctures.
llie company's operations have been attended with the desired success in making elastic India rubber webs, surgical bandages, braces, garters, waist belts, shoulder straps, glove ties, &c., stays, boots, laced stockings, &c. ; saddle girths, horse rollers, water- proof doth for coats, cloaks, capes, hammer cloths of carriages, &c.| canvas for tarpanling, cart tilts, rick cloths, &c.; tubes for engine pipes or hose, &c. &c. ; block rubber and sheet rubber, rubber for billiard table coshions, caoutchouc paste for rendering boots and shoes water proof — for varnishes and solutions ; ca- outchouc paint, elastic bands for driving machinery, &c. ; these bands have been used with great advantage as breechings of guns, windlass ropes, towing ropes, and many other applications where their elastic property is a perfect security against their breaking by a jerk : one of the most generally known applications win explain the extension of its utility to similar purposes. For a long time, the '^ Nassau Balloon " has been provided with such a rope : when the grapnel or anchor catches, instead of a sudden jerk^ the balloon is arrested without its restraint being felt ; and, as the force of a jerk is the severest test of the strength of a rope or cord, experiments have shown that the elastic rope, capable of bearing the same dead strain as common rope, will bear with more perfect safety the fall of equal weights attached to both, a difierence of ten to one, .for the heights from which the weights descend to be arrested by the rope ; they therefore relieve ma- chinery, horses and men, in action, and have an infinite greater durability, and are the best security against accidents from the breaking of ropes subjected to sudden strains.
The use of the Indian ccu)utchouc is at present in its infiincy, and in these days of science in which we live, it is not to be cal- culated to what uses the Indian rubber may be applied.
On the 1 6th of January, 1839, the north wing of this fiMtory
68 THE MANUFACTORIES.
was consumed by fire : the property destroyed, and damage done, was estimated at about £14,000. : it was believed tobe the act of an incendiary. The premises were insured, but not in a sufficient sum to cover the loss.
There were two extensive buildings of four stories each in height previous to the fire ; since then, three additional buildings have been erected, one of two stories high, one hundred and seventy feet in length, by thirty-eight feet in width ; one other of one story, one hundred and fifty feet in length, by thirty-nine feet in width ; and one other of one story, one hundred and forty feet in height, by thirty-two feet in width : there are now two steam engines, one of forty and another of twenty-five horse power.
The building is now reinstated, and the machinery in fiill work. There was very little damage done to the steam engines although the engine-house suffered mueh from the fire.
The company re-built such part of the premises as were de- stroyed by the fire, and added the additional buildings above men- tioned. The number of persons employed in this factory, includ- ing men, women, and children, varies, according to the season and quantity of work ;} the sum paid in wages fluctuates from £5,200. to £10,000. per annum.»5
The Crape Manufactory.
About the year 1833, Mr. Herbert, of Nottingham, purchased the remainder of Coleman's Nursery which was not sold at the • auction ^6 in the year 1810, and built a capital house on the west side of the high road, nearly opposite Marsh Lane, and two ranges of extensive buildings, four stories high, with a steam en- gine of ten-horse power, for the purpose of manufacturing bob- bin net, and lace. The number of persons he employed in the factory was one hundred and forty, males and females. In the year 1837, Mr. Herbert left this factory, and retired to Notting- ham; previously to which, he let all the premises on lease to the present occupiers, Messrs. Bay lis, for seven years. The house and buildings cost Mr. Herbert £10,000.^7 and upwards. Messrs.
(95) From a circular distributed through the parish, by the Company. (96) See Appendix Na I, page 27. (97) From the information of Mr. Herbert.
PJtOPRIBTORS OF LANDS IN 1600.
as
Baylis caxry on an extensive nuumfiM^tory of crape, in whieh tliey employ abont one hundred and ninety, men, women, and chil- dren ; and the amoont of wages annually paid for labour is abont £3,500.w
THE PRINCIPAL PROPRIETORS OF LAND IN 1600.
The principal land proprietors in number, and their names were
Thomas Adams, J. Burrongh, — Bennett, J. Bolton, Thomas Bolton, « Edward Barkham, William Benning, Ambrose Crew, J.Clay. Marshall Crust, George Chapman, J. Cage, John Culph, Elizabeth Candeler, H. Cowis, J. Fenton, Erasmus Greene, Erasmus Greenaway, William Gore, Thomas Goddard,
the parish, were only forty in
Lady Heyboume, Thomas Hughes, Robert Hutchins, J. Harrison, Joseph Justice, Thomas King, Mrs. Moyse, Robert Morton, R. Morris, Edward Osborne, William Palmer, Sir James Price, Sir Thomas Penniston, Widow Pearson, Richard Pulford, Arthur Robinson, Gawen Whittingham, Thomas Wheeler, William Young. &c. &c.
The names of the lands and marshes in the possession of the foregoing proprietors were as follow :
Those an the East side of the highway — Markfield ; 09 Hill
(98) From tlie iDformation of Mr. James Baylit. (99) Now the property of William Hobeoo, Esq.
70 PROPRIETORS OF LANDS IN 1600.
Pond Field ; Lounders ; lOo Waders ; Colls Croft ; Pagistied ; Johnson's; Bush Mead; Balwin's;!^! Coppesfield; Marven's; The Hale Field Marsh; Lock Mead, ditto ; Mill Mead, ditto; The Great Dinge; Barlows Hoppett; Ratlen's Croft, or Long Slype ; Clendish Hills Marsh ; ITie Downe Marsh ; Mitchley Marsh ; Broad Mead Marsh ; Wild Marsh ; Moorefield ; Stone Leys; J<>2 Butchers Field; The Eight Acres; Barne Close; Long Field; Howfield; MockingsGrounds,i02«consistingof Bam Close, the Nether Pightle, the Upper Pightle, Pear Tree Field, Great Field, Long Field, Hardings, Little Field, Comber Croft ; iw Crows Nest; lo* Asplins; 105 Warman's Field; Feather Field; Balls Down; Bermott; Ridley, &c.
Those on the West side of the parish — Great Gallow Field; Little Gallow Field; Oat Field; Bushey Hangre; Stone Bridge Field, alias Snares Mead ; Great Nares Mead ; Megge Field ; Barn Close ; Lionel Field ; Warner's Field ; Halesfield ; Lord's Grove; Parkfield; Black-hope Grove; Lounders Mead; Collier- field ; Crookes Grove ; Red Lands ; West Green Field ; Gads- dens ; 106 Whilefield ; Calcott's; Harpool Field; Hawke Parke; Stevens Field ; Butchers Field ; The Camps ; Long Croft ; Long Pightle; Hill Pond Field ;107 Southfield, at St. Loys ; Lang- ford Lands ; 106 Lords Mead ; Godders Field ; Down Hills ; Broad Waters ; Duckets — comprising Butchers Field, Home Mead, Duckets Mead, Rough Pasture, Mabley Trough, Cold- hams Grove, and Great Coldhams Grove; Cappers Field; Ants Croft; Naves; Tottenham Wood ; 10^ Woodridings ; Scares Pightle; Upper Mead; Roundabouts; Highfield Grove ; Perrins Field ; Larkins Field ; Hopper Field ; Rosefields ; Hoppers ; Perrycroft Grove ; SerlesGrove ; Wellfield ; Raglands ; Denny Croft ;
(100) Now the property of James Row, Esq.
(101) Late the property of Richard Mountford, Etq. deoeaaed.
(102) Now the property of Mr. Joha Scales.
(102a) The site of the ancient Manor of Mockmg$ mentioned hereafter. (103) Now called "Combes Croft/' belonging to the parish.
(104) A small farm on the east side of Willoughby Lane.
(105) A farm on the north side of Marsh Lane.
(106) Now belonging to £. G. Wind us, Esq., at the south-east corner of Philip
Lane, on which there is now an unique cottage, in which he resides.
(107) Now belonging to the parish.
(108) Now Bruce Grove. (109) Now Thomas Rhodes.
PROPRIETORS OF LANDS IN 1600. 71
Slyfidd; Apeland ; Crookes Orove; Pagefield; Lords Grove; Spottens Grove ; Spottens Plain ; Little Awle Field ; Great Awle Field ; West Beds ; Tottenham Leas (at Clay Hill ;) The Parsonage Grounds ; East Field ; Connygree ; &c.
The roads^ greens, and lanes, were known by the following names :
Those on the East side of the highway — Page Green ; Hoop Lane ; i^o Bramble Lane ; m Broad Lane ; The Hale Lane ; The Mill Road; Down Lane; Marsh Lane; Crows Nest Lane;ii< &c.
Those on the West side of the highway — Chisley Lane; 1^3 Black-hope Lane ; High Cross Lane, alieu Philip Lane ; Lord- ship Lane; Love Lane; Berry Lane;ii4 White Hart Lane; Apeland Street; Hyfield Slough ;n5 Wolf Lane; Clay HUl Lane ; Hangre Green ; Wamer*8 Green ; Chapmans Grreen : Beans Green ; Duckets Green ; Elses Green ; Smiths Cross Green ; Bounds Green ; Searles Green ; West Green ; Wood Green ; Chitts HUl ; Bush Hill; Clay Hill ; &c.
On comparing the Survey of 1798, with the Earl of Dorset's Survey taken in 1619, the greater part of the parish appears to have undergone little alteration, except in those parts where buildings have been erected ; and this appears principally to be in Lords Mead and Langford Lands, now called Bruce Orove; on the north side of Lordship Lane, called Bruce Terrace ; on the north side of Black-up Lane ; and on the north side of White Hart
(110) Tbis lane, whidi is at the south east oorner of Tottenham Green, fonnerlj led tbenoe hj Baldwin's Meadows, into Broad Lane and Page Green.
(111) This lane fbmierly led from Broad Lane, on the east of Loundem, into Lock Mead ; but it was stopped up, and taken into Lounders Meadow, by Mr. W. Row, in the year 1820.
(112) Now called WUloughby Lane. (113) Now called Hangre Lane.
(114) Seems to have been the name of a continuation of Lordship Lane, commencing at the lane leading from the top of Lordship Lane, on the west side of the Gutle wall to the Chorch, as flir as Chapman's Green.
(115) Apeland Street, and Hyfteld Slough; a continuation of White Hart Lane, commencing at the meadow called Apeland, and ending at Searles Green.
72 LOYALTY OF THE INHABITANTS.
Lane^ about half a mile from the high road^ called Tottenham Terrace t consisting of some good residences with others of a minor description : and also on the land called " Connygree," recently known as Coleman*s Nursery, on the west side of the high road, on which, during the years 1822 and 1823, and since, some good houses have been erected, and a number of a smaller description.
THE VOTERS FOR KNIGHTS OF THE SHIRE.
In the year 1839, there were about three hundred persons in the parish who claimed to be entitled to vote for two knights of the shire for the county of Middlesex, under the provisions of the Reform Act, 2 W. IV, c. 45, intituled " An Act to amend the re- presentation of the people in England and Wales," (passed 1832) of which, one hundred and thirty-six were freeholders, eleven copyholders, sixty leaseholders, and the others by rental and occupation.
THE LOYALTY OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE PARISH OF
TOTTENHAM.
In the year 1792, at the time of the revolution in France, England was disquieted by the doctrines of several disloyal indi- viduals, and more particularly by the publication of a book writ- ten by an individual of the name of Thomas Paine, entitled " The Rights of Man,'' which was full of blasphemy and sedition, and was circulated with much industry and very extensively through the kingdom, in order to excite the evil-disposed to acts of rebellion, plunder, and murder. Loyal associations were gene- rally formed in the neighbourhood of London and in many parts of the kingdom, which showed this man, his followers, and coad- jutors that their attempts to subvert the government would be fu- tile ; and amongst the King's subjects, the parishioners of Tot- tenham were not backward in showing their loyalty and attach-
LOYALTY OP THE INHABITANTS. 73
iBoit to the King and the oonstitiitJan. A htieS acoonnt of their proeeedings is here subjoined.
In the year 1792^ a meeting of the inhabitants of the parish was convened at the George and Vulture tavern^ which was very numerously attended by all the principal inhabitants, tradesmen, and others ; at which it was unanimously resolved that certain opinions had been circulated with much art and industry subver- sive to the dearest interests of this country, and destructive to all governments ; and as tumults and disOTders have appeared, the natureU consequences of such opinions^ it was considered by the inhabitants assembled at this meeting, that it was the duty of every individual to join his neighbour in support of the constitu- tion and government, by King, Lords, and Commons ; and, in order to effect which, they engaged to bind themselves to each other to support the civil authority personally, in suppressing all rioting and tumults, and in bringing the authors and promoters of such disorders to justice. The vicar and churchwardens, with ten of the principal inhabitants, were appointed a committee to carry the above resolutions into effect, when a subscription was at the same time opened, and the resolutions were ordered to be laid on the table in the Vestry Room from Saturday, the 22nd, to Saturday, the 29th of December, for signatures, which w^ sub« seqnently signed by a very great majority of the inhabitants of the parish.
After this meeting was dissolved, a procession both of horse- men and men on foot paraded through the parish, followed by a cart in which was placed the effigy of Tom Paine in a sitting posture, with a book in his hand ; there was also a person in the cart on the side of the effigy, who represented the executioner ; and after parading through the parish, the effigy was brought back to the George and Vulture and hung upon a high gibbet and burnt in the midst of the people, whose acclamations of loyalty showed their attachment to the King and the constitution. During the procession, a paper purporting to be the last dying speech of Tom Paine was distributed.
On the 30th of April following, a numerous meeting of the in- Iiabitants was held at the same tavern, at which it was unani-
74 ASSOCIATION FOR PREVBffTINO DBPRBDATIONS^
moufily resolved to form a voluntary association for the protection of the parish and neighbourhood ; at which, a very liberal sub- scription was entered into to form a fund to defray all expenses that should be incurred, and to provide uniforms for such mem- bers of it who, from their situation in life, were unable to bear the expense themselves. The association was soon formed, and offi- cers were appointed under the sanction of government, who pro- vided arms and accoutrements : the corps continued to muster regularly for exercise twice a week, for three or four years, when it was dissolved.
THE ASSOCIATION FOR PREVENTING DEPREDATIONS, &c- AND THE METROPOLIS POLICE FORCE.
For several years previous to the year 1823, a great many de- predations and many burglaries had been committed in this pa- rish, which were increasing rather than diminishing, and so fre- quent were offences committed, that in November, 1828, a gene- ral meeting of the inhabitants of the parish was convened, in or- der to adopt such measures as might appear expedient for the protection of the parishioners during the then approaching winter ; when it appeared that for want of a sufficient fiind to keep up a nightly patrol which had been appointed, it was therefore obliged to be diminished in number, and to this cause was attributed the increase of depredations.
It appeared to the parishioners present that there was a neces- sity of immediately adopting such means as might be best calcu- lated to ensure the general protection of the neighbourhood ; for which purpose, a scale of contributions was established — to be paid by the inhabitants, according to the rates of their houses and premises as they were then assessed, at the rate of six-pence in the pound upon houses, and one penny in the pound upon land. A committee was appointed to collect contributions, and a treas- urer and secretary were also appointed. Rewards from £1. up to £15. were paid by the association as an encouragement for the
THB MSTROPOLITAN POLICB FORCE. 75
apprehending and convicting oflfenden^ one-half was paid on ap- prehending, and the other half npon conviction.
This association was given np upon the parishioners agreeing to adopt the watching and lighting act ,11^ and they were watched under the provisions of this act for three years ; after which^ they were not inclined to renew the appointment of the inspectors, and the watching was abandoned altogether.
In IdSSy a private subscription was entered into for the pur- pose of watching the parish, and a constabulary force was appointed, which continued until the autumn of 1839 : a considerable sum was raised, and a number of efficient men were appointed to patrol the parish by day and night; but this was given up in August, 1839. Shortly after which, this parish, with several others, was formed into a Metropolitan Police District.
The Metropolitan Police District.
This parish, together with Edmonton, Enfield, fValtham Abbey, Cheehunt, and Chingford, was formed into a police district, under the Metropolitan Police Act.n^ The metropolitan police commissioners sent a force down, who commenced operations and took possession of the watch or station house on the 13th of Jan- nary last. There are fifteen police constables appointed for this parish, including two sergeants.
llie parish is lighted by the commissioners of the metropolis roads north of the Thames; there are about sixty gas lamps from Stamford Hill to the parish of Edmonton, supplied by the Imperial Gas Company, at Haggerstone ; and the commissioners also provide horse patroles, who traverse the parish during the night. There are only two magistrates resident in the parish-T- William Robinson, LL.D., and Thomas Gibson, Esq.
(116) The 3 and 4 Will. IV., c. 90, intitaled— " An Act to repeal aa Act of the eleventh year of his late Majetty King George IV, for Lighting and Watching of Pa- risbea in England and Wales, and to make other provisions in lieu thereof." (Passed 28th of August, 1833.)
(117) The 2 and 3 Vict. c. 47, intituled^-" An Act for further improving the Po- lice io aad ncftr the Metropolis. (Passed 17th Augnst, 1839.)
76 CALAMITOUS FIRE.
CALAMITOUS FIRE.
On the Slst of December^ 1807, a fire broke out in White Hart Lane, at the residence of Mrs. Maccaughey, next to the Vicarage House towards the north, who kept a boarding school for young ladies, which was attended with melancholy circum- stances. The nurse, according to custom, had put two of Mrs. Maccaughey^s children to bed, one about five, the other about seven years of age ; and it has been supposed that on her leaving the room in haste, the curtains of one of the beds which was near the door by some means caught fire unperceived by the nurse, the bed and furniture soon became a continuous blaze of fire. When the screams of the children were heard, it was too late to render them any assistance, and they became victims to the devouring element, and the house was soon reduced to a heap of ruins. . Mrs. Maccaughey was from home when the fire happened. Previously to this great calamity, Mr. Maccaughey, who had left England on some mercantile business, was lost at sea, leaving Mrs. Mac- caughey with eight children, one of which, previous to this fire, was accidentally drowned in a pond in the garden, while the mother was at church.
The site of this house, with the garden and about seven acres of meadow in the front, was, in 1818, purchased by Mr. Robert Henry Sparks, who then occupied the adjoining house towards the west, which he added to the pleasure grounds attached to his residence. The premises, on which the house stood that was burnt down, are subject to a quit rent of Is. 6d. per annum^ to the lord of the manor of Tottenham.
The house above mentioned to have been formerly in the occu- pation of Mr. Sparks, was one of the old mansion houses in this parish, and in the Dorset Survey it is called Toses. It was for- merly in the occupation of Mr. Jansen, then of Mr. Home, and afterwards of John Eardley Wilmot, Esq. It was purchased by Mr. Roger Dawson, and the late Mr. Thomas Williams, about the year 1827, of Mr. Sparks : the old house was soon afterwards pulled down, and two neat houses were erected on its site after the style of the Italian Filla, and which now occupy as well the site of the old mansion as that of the house destroyed by fire.
FRSBHOLDBRS AND COPYHOLDERS.
77
FREEHOLDERS AND COPYHOLDERS.
■
The names of the freeholders and copyholders who claimed to vote at the election of two knights of the shire for the county of Middlesex, in the year 1839.
Freeholders,
Tbote marked thus (*) are resident in Tottenham.
Anderson^ William. Anderson, Charles James. Andrews, Samuel. Appletree, Benjamin. Aldred, Anthony.* Archer, Charles.* Beadnell, John.* Bodkin, William Henry. Boon, John.* Bratt, William. Brown, James.* Bnllen, George. Burgess, William.* Brooks, William. Bacon, Huntley, Jun. Ball, William. Bates, Samuel.* Balaam, William. Beer, William.* Baker, William. Capel, John. Chandler, Thomas.* Chalkley, George.* Chassereau, James Daniel Cheffins, Caius. Cock, John.*
Curtis, Sir. William, Lord of the Manor,
ConyerSy Henry John. Cook, Thomas.* Clark, Thomas.* Collett, John. Dawson, Roger.* Dunster, Henry Thomas.* Duffield, Samuel.* Dallinger, Robert.* Delph, Nathan. Doyer, William. Dimmock, Edward Moss. EUis, Sir Henry, K.H. Femie, Ebenezer. Fletcher, Joseph.* Forster, Josiah.* Fisk, Henry.* Faulkner, George. Fowler, Samuel. Garman, Thomas.* Gittins, Samuel.* Gibbs, Joseph.* Gardner, James.* Haddan, William John.* Harvey, Henry WUliam.* Heraudy James Abraham.* HUl, Thomas Wrght.* Hill, Edwin.* Hill, Rowland.*
78
FREEHOLDERS AND COPYHOLDERS.
Hill, Frederick.* Hobson, William.* Hodgkins, John, senior.* Hodgkins, John, junior. Humphris, Edward.* Hamphries, John. Hamphrey, John. Humphreys, Thomas.* Hunt, Philip Thomas.* Hunt, John PhUip. Hobson, William, junior. Hadlow, William.* Holbrook, James.* Hodgson, Joseph Proud. Howard, Luke.* Hill, John. Heaver, John. Ives, William.* Illidge, John. Janson, William.* Johnson, Ebenezer.* Jones, Thomas. Jones, John. Jarvis, Stephen, junior. Keeling, John.* Knott, William.* Laundy, Joseph.* Lucas, John. Lee, Nathaniel Vye. Muncaster, Thomas.* May, William. Markham, Samuel.* MicheU, T. Penruddocke. Mercier, Francis.* Newcome, Thomas, Ficar
of Tottenham, Powell, Henry Weyland.
Press, George.* Peart, Thomas.* Phillips, John.* PhiUips, Edward.* Peile, Solomon. Preston, Sheffield.* Pim, John. Pryor, John. Row, James.* Richardson, Edward. Richardson, Charles. Richardson, George B. Richardson, William. Reid, John. Rhodes, Thomas.* Robinson, William, LLD.* Rufiy Jacob. Richardson, John, J. M. Richardson, Henry B. Sands, William. Sanders, James. Sanderson, Richard. Sanders, Thomas. Scambler, Henry.* Scales, John.* Seear, James. Seagoe, Robert James. Shackell, William. Shadbolt, Charles.* Shillitoe, Thomas.* Smale, Henry Lewis.* Soames, Charles.* Stacey, George.* S.tratton, John. Smith, Thomas. Smyth, Sir John. Sperling, Henry Piper.
■Jiir
ft ':
"H Jl
4,
:», m
TOTTENHAM 6RRBN.
79
Sparks, Thomas Hodgson. Scales, £dward. Sidcomb^ Thomas. Taylor, John. Thompson, John.
Tuck, George Storey.*
Townend, John.*
Tilley, Thomas.*
Teale, Benjamin Herdwick.
White, Thomas.*
Whyhro, Edward.* Wright, Wilham.* Wright, WUliam.* Wilks, Joseph Brown. Winstanley, John Strange. WiHis, John. Windos, Benjamin 6.* Warring, Thomas Albert. White, William* Wood, Richard Mountford.
Aylott, James.* Baker, Barnard. Bamford, Thomas, senior. Eaton, John. Harkmd, David.*
Copyholders,
Haddan, William John.* Nash,- Alexander John. Sparrow, Robert George. Turner, Charles.* Watson, Alexander.
Independently of the above Freeholders and Copyholders, there were many in the parish who neglected to register their names, consequently they were excluded from voting.
TOTTENHAM GREEN.
The spacious open area, called